Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, now the interesting part. I don't have the gear to get under my car until I visit my olds this weekend. Just how hard is it to get the oil from out of the can into the top of the gearbox? What tools did you guys use, if any? Or can you just put it in a small coke bottle and slowly transfer it?

I took my car to my friendly local Better Brakes workshop and they did it for free. They were gonna charge me $10 but in the end they didnt care coz our family has been getting brakes thru them for years.

Probably cost you $25 elsewhere which I would advise to do coz its cool looking under your car and seeing all the bits that you don't normally see :D

I changed my g/box oil yesterday , I used Castrol VMX80 , seems to have helped but not cured it entirely . The redline oil is next on my list . It really looks like if you have this crunching problem in your gearbox , it may be a good idea to go straight for the Redline shockproof oil .

Damn those g/box drain and filler plugs were soooo tight had to put a 3 foot pipe on the end of my ratchet to get them off .

Has anyone heard of any sort of g/box additive that could help this problem ? Just a thought .

I should've gone the Redline straight up , ahh well we live and learn !

"Has anyone heard of any sort of g/box additive that could help this problem ? Just a thought . "

put in a tube of nulon G70, that should help it. i put in a tube of that with the last gear box oil change. just wondering, can you just add that tube in without doing an oil change?

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest k34_56

hello....

i have an ER34 and i tink i have the same problem. i never knew how to describe it but i think crunch is the right word! the mechanic who checked the car used the word backlash and that there was nothing wrong with the gear box.

i'v replaced my gear oil with kaaz, but problem still there.

now, when i shift from 1st to 2nd, i paused a moment in neutral before shifting into 2nd gear.i do not feel any crunch whenever i did this.

juz adding my 2 cents ;) !

I get all brake work done at "Better Brakes" in penrith along with my mum and sister) and he said they normally charge $10-20. But in the end he did it for free.

Apparently tlai told me the other day that CRD were gonna charge $160 to supply/fit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...