Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys im just trying to work out what turbo and exhaust housing i should run so if you could post up what turbo you run (including exhaust a/r), when your car hits full boost by and you power output...

the reason i am asking is to help me decide what turbo i should run... i have a 1jz so rb25det figures would be more relivant but i am still interested to see rb20 and rb26 figures as well....

thanks for all the input guys & gals.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112648-when-does-your-turbo-hit-full-boost/
Share on other sites

i had a look at that, but it didn't really show when the cars hit full boost and what exhaust housing they where running.

If people have posted a dyno sheet, there definately will be....I think, if theres no rpm digit at the bottom of the sheet it starts at 3000rpm and each interleaving line is 500rpm upto 8000rpm I think. Just look and guess where the boost line first hits peak. Mine (RB26 thread) hits at around 4400rpm now.

i had a look at that, but it didn't really show when the cars hit full boost and what exhaust housing they where running.

If you read the posts and find out what turbos they are running you will.

alternatively (now here is the smart idea) find the one which tickles your fancy, if the full details are not in the post, why dont you PM the poster? They would have the best idea.

The question asked in this thread is really already covered.

I mean, you havent even set a goal, without a goal how do you know what your looking for?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...