Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, i tried a search. just a quick question....

is there an fpr that will be easier to fit ( or any benifits ) to the rb25det?

sard, malpassi.......etc

Malpassi's are good for paper weights and are a good band aid fix for leaking injectors. Sards are very good, but the standard FPR is just as good(just doesn't have any adjustment). Why you need a FPR?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112846-fprs/#findComment-2081041
Share on other sites

rob... hopefully getting bigger turbo soon and i'm under the impression that i can use a fpr to get a few extra kw's. i have 200rwkw now with pfc standard turbo 10 psi.

Can i max injectors and afm and get about 230rwkw with fpr and turbo?

will be getting z32 afm and injectors ( i cant afford them yet )

Thanks for the info Plasticstan ;)

Edited by handyandy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112846-fprs/#findComment-2081356
Share on other sites

Nismo is definately the way to go if you are after bolt on simplicity, and it works well.

Be careful stretching stock injectors, I have seen so many RB25s go bang because they push the fuel system to the limits - its a shame because the RB25 can handle decent power if you just do things right and dont cut corners.

Another use for fpr (other than stretching the stock injectors) is to dial up the correct base pressure for aftermarket injectors. Sard, Nismo, HKS etc all rate their injectors at a base pressure (at idle) of 3.0kg, instead of the stock 2.55kg. The sard 550cc injectors, for example, are only rated at 520cc with base fuel pressure at 2.55kg (this is from the AP engineering site)

I asked a japanese performance mechanic to check my car to see if I was missing anyting - internally stock rb25 with 320rwkw. He suggested I should fit a fpr to bring base fuel pressure up to 3kg (sard injectors) - It was explained to me by him that using 3kg was 'best' for idle, fuel correction, accel enrichment etc when using power fc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112846-fprs/#findComment-2081639
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Right, but not just first manual, but the shifter is on the right (wrong?) side for the land of the free too.... Anyway, good find, 260RS got rare as soon as people realised what was under the skin
    • Thanks for posting this up, and its always nice to see a way to use a newer/more available part to keep the old stuff going. One thing I want to highlight from your write up is that you used the old gear. I am pretty sure the RWD R34 and AWD R33/34 senders would have different number of teeth because they have difference diff ratios; can you confirm? Just something for people to keep in mind if they make this change
    • haha don't worry I'm sue you've got more fun ahead buying a 30 year old turbo car....but at least you are in the right place to ask
    • some days eh? The keyless entry and interior light on/off with the key will be controlled by the Body Control Module, but I'm not certain where that is or what it looks like (you might get lucky with a search to get a part#, which could be printed on it). I'd start at the A pillar/ Under dash/kick panel on the driver's side
    • It might be hit and miss, but Nissan Genuine Parts and Pitworks are not the same thing, although both are available from Nissan Dealers with Nissan Part Numbers. Nissan Genuine Parts are the OEM stuff, Pitworks are their attempt to get people back from generic parts makers
×
×
  • Create New...