Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Zdenko, put a set of Tomei's 256's in an R34 GTST and made 240 rwkw with a hi flowed R34 GTST turbo. That was 12 rwkw more maximum horsepower than the standard cams, but 20 rwkw more in the mid range. Result 0.4 sec 1/4 improvement.

This was the last mod we did, it already had HKS I/C, hi flow turbo, panel filter, alloy inlet tube, adj exhaust camshaft pulley, split dump pipe, hi flow cat, 3" exhaust and Power FC.

I would not recommend changing the cams until you have done the above. Better bang for your buck in these bits.

Hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11375-cams-for-rb25det/#findComment-193112
Share on other sites

I have done some research, GTS-t VSPEC (SAU) and SydneyKid (SDU) both given useful information, however cams setup will varies from turbo / setup..even same turbo on two different cars..

Also different degree (mine is 264...tomei makes 256, 264, 272) duration will shift the boost early or after...but fatter the power band is what I chasing for..

PM me for the price..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11375-cams-for-rb25det/#findComment-193121
Share on other sites

I agree with what your all saying, cams should be chosen with a turbo upgrade to maximise the power output, but midrange is just as important. If you go for really wild cams then you will loose power down low, so many are only good for drag racing. I think the 256's or 264's give you a nice usable street setup, and will certainly improve 1/4 mile times.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11375-cams-for-rb25det/#findComment-193126
Share on other sites

Guest Peewee

dear zdenko i believe the cams that are in the R33 are already too ****en big but un fortuanatly the complete **** up that nissan call the rb25 head is so grossely inefficiant that chasing decent midrange is pretty much out of the question so you may as well try and get it all up top than try to get a bit back in the middle where the cams will be efficient to 5000rpm and the head start being efficient at 4500rpm (for example) you may aswell do the best with what you got and aim for it up top!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11375-cams-for-rb25det/#findComment-195685
Share on other sites

Peewee, I would have to disagree with you on the RB25 head and cams, yes it is quite easy to make a balls-up of choosing cams, so that you only get top-end power, but I have seen many RB25's with very good mid-range.

The head is far from inefficient, and there are examples of many making big (500+) hp.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11375-cams-for-rb25det/#findComment-195700
Share on other sites

I'm with GTS-t VSPEC, the RB25 head is the same casting as the RB26 head. I have seen a mildly ported RB26 head make almost 1,000 bhp on the engine dyno and that's hardly an inefficient design. I have also seen an almost standard RB25 cylinder head on an RB30 bottom end do a 9.9 standing 1/4, that's hardly a inefficient design. I had a stock standard RB25 headed RB30 that made 550 ft lbs of torque at 5,200 rpm, that's hardly an inefficient design.

If you have previously had experiences with mismatched components, that is not really an indicator of inefficiencies or deficiencies in the design of the head. That's just poor selection criteria.

The end result is the sum of the parts, not the fault of one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11375-cams-for-rb25det/#findComment-195726
Share on other sites

I'd sugest either a set of 256's or 264's, both can be made to produce a smooth idle.

The 264's will provide more power, but don't go for too high a lift as you have hydraulic lifters.

Most of the manufacturers like HKS, Trust and Tomei produce excellent camshafts.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11375-cams-for-rb25det/#findComment-195760
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...