Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wondering first, where a stock (besides exhaust) r32 gts-t (rb20det) will hit max boost and max kilowatts at? What RPM's?

Also wondering if any 1 else has the following problem. I accelerate foot flat, at 3k rpm turbo spools, the car pulls hard to about 4500 rpm then i cant really feeling it "pulling" anymore and away goes that pushed-back-in-my-seat feeling, until at about 6000rpm-6500rpm (hard to see, revs increase to damn fast) it seems to come out of its rut and pulls again, harder than ever. Any one got any suggestions? Im getting a fmic soon but i cant see that helping. I assumed it could be timing or something, maybe the ecu needs fixing i dunno. I remember when i bought it it had a flat spot, which i fixed with injector cleaner dunno if that helps

Cant afford to chuck it on a dyno at the moment, so any help is much appreciated.

Also just wondering about new air filters (pod stylez). I heard from a couple of people and places that they are actually worth putting on my model skyline as the stock one isnt so great. So anyway is it worth the $150? Will it make gay whistling sounds or make compressor wheel surge more likely

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115287-couple-of-r32-gts-t-turbo-questions/
Share on other sites

Hey man had the same problem origianally. R32 GTS-T's run out of puff because of the turbo however a electronic turbo controller like a E-Boost makes a big difference. A air intake is definitely needed and the new K&N is good value and works well. I installed it on mine and had instant results. You probably need a bigger fuel pump too. I can get you a Walbro fuel pump for about $120-150 if you want brand new so PM if you want the site to order it.

Also the FMIC will make a bigger difference than you think but honestly a full exhaust system on the R32 as well as a turbo upgrade is needed. Don't worry about the computer until you update your turbo and so on. I would recommend if funds are tight to get the R33 turbo as it is a High Flow and makes a great difference and holds boost heaps better. I got mine for $600 installed and it is great.

ahhhh thanks man, ill put the air filter on (assuming most people just cut the old air box off or disconnect the pipeing and chuck the new 1 on) and look into a Boost controller, look at cranking it to around 12 psi right? Got a 3 inch turbo-back exhaust on it when i got it which is mad (got like a 8 inch straight through lukey muffler and a 5 inch tip and its still not very loud demit). Guess ill go boost conrtoller hunting.. that 1 for $22 sounds cool but, i assume it doesnt actually gauge the psi your getting and would have to play by ear. Time to go spend half this weeks pay check zz

thx

ahhhh thanks man, ill put the air filter on (assuming most people just cut the old air box off or disconnect the pipeing and chuck the new 1 on) and look into a Boost controller, look at cranking it to around 12 psi right? Got a 3 inch turbo-back exhaust on it when i got it which is mad (got like a 8 inch straight through lukey muffler and a 5 inch tip and its still not very loud demit). Guess ill go boost conrtoller hunting.. that 1 for $22 sounds cool but, i assume it doesnt actually gauge the psi your getting and would have to play by ear. Time to go spend half this weeks pay check zz

thx

Dude the air filter is real easy and makes a big difference. The noise of the skyline is never that crash hot I don't think personally. Truth is the WRX sounds better. You can crank it to 12 psi not a problem. Honestly, don't cheap out and get the E-Boost. It is about $500 and worth every penny. I have that theory and all my friends don't. They have all suffered from it later. Let me know how everything goes I would like to hear. Just PM me. You just need to on the air filter remove the clamp and add on new one with the air filter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...