Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I reckon you'll need full engine management to get up to the 190-200rwkw mark (non shootout mode that is). To get that kind of power without major mods to the engine, you'll need to push the turbo hard. I've only got 177rwkw with most of the mods below, but I'm just using a SAFC and a bleeder.

So you'd probably need something like the following:

Big FMIC

14psi using an EBC

Full exhaust

Power FC (or other full computer)

CAI with a pod filter, or a really good panel filter which may not be possible with a FMIC)

possibly an adjustable ex cam gear - although I feel it hurt my bottom end too much.

Feel free to correct me anyone :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11698-the-plan-190rwkw/#findComment-204735
Share on other sites

Also make sure you go to a good tuner. If you can't quite meet your kilowatt target, don't push it too hard. You'll be hard pressed to notice the difference between 195rwkw and 200rwkw. I'd take a safe 195rwkw engine over a 200rwkw hand grenade engine with really lean AF ratios.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11698-the-plan-190rwkw/#findComment-204740
Share on other sites

Hi.....

With the following mods.

- APEXI S-AFC

- Electronic Boost Controller (set to .8 bar)

- HKS CAT Back Exhaust

- Pod Filter

My car recently dynoed 188rwKw (this was in shootout mode though).............

The S-AFC I purchased for $400 from someone on this forum and the boost controller I got for $200 on EBAY.

My next upgrade will be the rest of the exhaust.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11698-the-plan-190rwkw/#findComment-204892
Share on other sites

Before I had the boost controller installed I had the car dynoed and in non shootout mode acheived 147rwKW running standard boost....though it should be noted that the day was stinking hot - 40 degrees which didn't help....

I've only had the boost controller for a few weeks but normally just drive around with the boost set to standard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11698-the-plan-190rwkw/#findComment-205633
Share on other sites

Im not sure of the difference between standard and shootout mode but im guessing their is a small difference.

Anyhow in shootout mode:

191rwkw

12psi

FMIC

HKS Pod Filter

Cat-back 3" Exhaust

Std Turbo

Std ECU

98 Octane Optimax

203rwkw (36c heat)- (186rwkw @ 7psi)

12psi

FMIC

HKS Pod Filter

3" Full Exhaust

Std Turbo

Std ECU

98 OCtane Optimax

New oil

http://skylines.pnc.com.au.dyno-203rwkw.jpg

Not bad but im confident i can get it up to 210rwkw with the Std Turbo + ECU.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11698-the-plan-190rwkw/#findComment-205756
Share on other sites

With the recent SAU dyno day in melbourne there were a few R33 at around 180rwkw and above and that was a pretty hot and humid day.

Mine pushed 183 (and wasn't running too great), inasnt: 185, and I think it was west (who's car is currently for sale btw) pushed 190 at the rear wheels - all with standard turbos.

Its quite achieveable, and bolt on a bigger turbo and you be able to get upwards of 230rwkw without touching the insides.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11698-the-plan-190rwkw/#findComment-205788
Share on other sites

Shootout mode is meant to be used to compare figures between cars. It locks the roller ramp rate, and it can't be modified at all, so you can be sure that any car measured with it can have its power accurately compared with any other one tested with it.

Now, from what I've heard, it adds around 10% to what you would normally get on a properly set up dyno, so 203kw really is around 184kw (A damn good result considering you've got a stock ECU, benm). That said, you can't really just take off the 10% extra to compare with people run in non-shootout mode, as this opens you up to differences in how the non-shootout mode dyno was set up.

So, if you want to compare figures use shootout mode, but be aware that the figures are inflated.

Cheers,

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11698-the-plan-190rwkw/#findComment-205840
Share on other sites

The car came with a Micks Metalcrafts 'bar n plate' FMIC which i have been told has quite a thick core (Not sure on the exact measurements I had them here somewhere but lost the info).

Didn't touch the AFM

2 Stage boost controller, can't remember the brand.

Not sure when 12psi comes on but 1 of the 'Unigroup' guys on the forums here said in 4th gear on the dyno I was making 6psi @ 2,200rpm. I have no idea if thats good or bad.

Ben.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11698-the-plan-190rwkw/#findComment-206413
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks. We getting some parts along too so he will be solving the speed issue like next week so i will let you know what he came up with.   
    • 21 is explicitly the coils detected as the issue. Is it guaranteed the actual issue? No. Just the ECU thinks it is. When you say rattling, describe it better, get an audio clip as best you can if possible.
    • Yea got me coppers. Bad news is I just put them in and the car still has the light and shakes. I also noticed I hear like rattling coming from the exhaust piping right under me. Does 21 also have a possibility of being O2 sensors?   So, coil packs are good, the harness is good, the MAF is working, and obviously the spark plugs just replaced and working.
    • Make sure you drop the GTT base tune back in, and set your injectors again, this will remove anything playing up with it you may have removed. Possibly lean there as it's normally a fast transient going THROUGH atmospheric pressure, and a turbo motor would then quickly go richer as boost builds. The only worry you MIGHT have is ignition timing, as the DE is higher compression than the DET from memory. But again, you're not in boost, so the DE motor will be a lot more forgiving at atmospheric.   Get Murray, Kinkstahs, and Johnny's input on tuning haltechs, those guys have played with tuning enough in the past to be able to help now you're past the trouble shooting stage of the MAP issue
    • @Rusty NutshI mate. Do you have a pinout diagram for the na neo auto ecu? 
×
×
  • Create New...