Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looking for something on this topic.

but have come up with nothing at all.

where is the best place to run the wire through from the engine bay,

and for racing purposes, do i need to insulate that wire some more through the fire wall etc?

you can run it though the passenger side of the fire wall but will need to take the inner guard out, or the easier way it to run it under the car along the fuel line and come up though a hole under the spare tyre, takes no time and don't have to take any panels off :thumbsup:

1. Take the wheel off and some of the screws for the plastic guard

2. push a screwdriver through the hugely apparent rubber grommet from the front into the car.

This is the drivers side and i don't know if its the same the otherside, but then you will have to run the cable across the engine somewhere and thats bad for reasons of heat+plastic.

I wrapped most of the cable from the battery in black electrical tape (because its illegal to be red, or something stupid)

post-13111-1147254430.jpg

post-13111-1147254493.jpg

I used 2 guage for power, but 8 guage would be perfect. I have been told 2 guage is a bit of overkill by some people and that 0 guage is only way to go for power by others. :. I don't think there is a 4 guage....I could be wrong but I have never seen any.

A lot of cars run a battery in the boot (wieght distribution). 0 gauge is huge over kill, it would be approx. 2-3cm thick and good luck getting it through any where let alone around any tight fitting bends or trims! Any way, if you haven't noticed the cars wiring (positive and negative) on an R32 is 8 gauge at best to the terminals. 4 gauge is ideal - large enough to not drop voltage but appliable and the correct size for aftermarket battery terminals. And 4 gauge is what most factory cars run for there main power cables (batteries, starter motors etc.).

Running it under the car is illegal and emencely dangerous if the wire was to be exposed (especially in an accident!)

As previously mentioned, your battery is on the drivers side so run it through where the picture showed you!

Don't be lazy and pull your seats out, lift you carpet up and lay the wire correctly as the main wiring loom to the back is there so it's easy to follow all the way into the boot

I would go the extra mile to and take the chance to improve your cars electrical capability and replace your earths and add a few new ones with black 4 gauge wire as all your motor electronics earth through your motor to earth lead to chassis so if you have a better connection and more of them you may be surprised at the difference. Thats what those earth kits are for!

To be honest with you, I'm going to be doing this in the near future too and haven't looked at how I'm going to mount my battery and case in the boot so if you do yours, post pics or tutorial!

Hope that helps :P

hmm thanks for the info ellie

i rang complete carsound today and asked for their opinion (i've bought stuff off them before) and they said to use "00" gauge cable. they can get it for me for roughly $25/m.

ripping the HICAS out soon, so i may aswell do the wiring right also

I recently relocated my battery into the boot of my car. Used 2 gauge cable, ran both the positive and negative cables under the car (wrapped in 2 cable conduit tubes). Ran along the chassis rails near the brake lines, making sure i tucked the cnduit under as close as possible to the body, cable-tie-ing every 10cm or so.

bought an approved battery box from peps ( repco, supercheap etc etc will have them) and finished it off by using som gold plated terminal mounts.

I recently relocated my battery into the boot of my car. Used 2 gauge cable, ran both the positive and negative cables under the car (wrapped in 2 cable conduit tubes). Ran along the chassis rails near the brake lines, making sure i tucked the cnduit under as close as possible to the body, cable-tie-ing every 10cm or so.

bought an approved battery box from peps ( repco, supercheap etc etc will have them) and finished it off by using som gold plated terminal mounts.

You dont need to run a neg cable to the front of the car. All you need is positive to the front and the neg to the body in the boot somewhere.

You beed to vent the box outside, unless you have a sealed battery.

  • 2 weeks later...

***************

Hey fellas, im in the process of doing this mod in my GTR. But i cant for the life of me find any thick enough electrical wire to run from the engine to the battery in the boot.

Im looking for 4Gauge, but was just hopeing someone could throw me a couple of shops or numbers i should try, im in Sydney?

Thanks a lot guys...

Edited by mazgtr
  • 2 weeks later...

If anyone's wondering how long a cable you need, its 5.2m. this will be sufficient to go from the fron where the battery originally was, under the front guard following the other cable, and under the carpet into the left hand side of the boot plus giving a little bit extra.

i've got mine on the left as i'll be putting the surge tank and pumps on the right :wave:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...