Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ppls :D

having some issues again... :~(

when im driving round these days sometimes after like 4000 or so rpm i will kinda like loose engine power for a second when shes on like 7 or more psi...

Is it that kinda the same as missing... ? it doesnt realy cough or splutter... its just as if the engine turns off for like 1 second...

should i be doing the hole coil pack trick for this problem.. ?

also i dont no if its related... but my turbo seems to be heaps louder now... its bit odd...

it kinda makes this wierd loud angry spooling kinda noise...

it doesnt seem to make any ticking or metal on metal noises though...

?

getting real pissed off real quick with all these constant car issus :)

thanks heaps :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117720-missing-turbo/
Share on other sites

oh yeah... i also put in new spark plugs recenly.. but the problem started a couple of weeks after that...

however repco told me 'BCPR6ES - 8' spark plugs and 'BCPR6ES' plugs

were both .8mm ?? so i just got the 'bcpr6es ' ones... perhaps this isnt correct :) ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117720-missing-turbo/#findComment-2164891
Share on other sites

I thought the standard gap was 1.1mm?

The 6 bit is the heat rating, I beleive. (how far the inside conductor sticks out the plug)

I have the same thing, and there is a huge thread about inspecting and repairing hairline cracks in your coilpacks. The theory is, the spark it exiting the crack in the pack, rather than going to your spark plugs.

New plugs are gapped correctly, so the spark has to jump further, which causes the cracks in the packs to be more of a hinderance. If you gap the plugs down (dodgy fix), then the spark is more likely to jump that smaller distance, rather than jump through the crack.

Best to fix your coilpacks, leave a good gap on the plugs (better burn).

I think I have a broken exhaust gasket... I get a ticking sound from it. I can hear it quite obviously when I pull up next to a wall. Might want to sus that area? Or check the other gaskets on the turbo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117720-missing-turbo/#findComment-2165010
Share on other sites

cool thanks for that :P with the ticking/gasket noise though .. do u here it when ur just idling ?? mines kinda just a loud turbo kinda noise.. i dont no if its leaking anywhere thought because it doesnt seem to be loosing boost at all..

i put the older spark plugs back in just now.. i also had a look at the coil packs with a torch.. i couldnt realy see any cracks or anything that looked wierd on the rubber bit or the plastic parts.. also that yellow see through stuff at the back of them looked alright to..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117720-missing-turbo/#findComment-2165123
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi mate,

I had the exact same problem after changing my coils and plugs to ngk iriway irridiums. Just double check all the clamps on your inlet hose and make sure they're nice and tight, and that they'res no cracks/splits in the rubber joins. One of the clamps wasnt done up and was blowing open above 9psi or so, causing the car to basically die for about a sec on even moderate acceleration, driving like an old man the car was ok though. Also had the 'angry spooling noise' it sounded wiked tho lol pity its gone.

Also be careful not to get too worried about a ticking noise, it could just be your injectors - in which case its normal. They seem really loud if you have the car in and enclosed space, or if you're running the engine with the bonnet open.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117720-missing-turbo/#findComment-2207323
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...