Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well, to put it simply. Yes

Its a newer car, its a newer gearbox, its a newer engine, its got newer brakes, newer interior, better looking (objective)

Ive now hit a brick wall, i have realized that a 260RS is great value for money ... ill keep you all posted *wink*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120448-inexpensive-s1/#findComment-2219057
Share on other sites

There could be BIG issues with this car to get it complied

S1 were never manual

May all depend on how well the conversion is done, in regards to the firewall, gearbox tunnel hole for gear stick and handbrake mount.

Super cheap price but.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120448-inexpensive-s1/#findComment-2219152
Share on other sites

My S1 was Y450,000,and it has no front Stagea badge. Thats why she thinks she is a Volvo, or an Audi RS4.

Mine was grade 4, and in nearly Excellent condition. Original colour,VGC>

With the normal price drops that go on as time goes by and more S2 with lots of goodies come on the market, S1s will probably be unsellable except for spares.

Personally I have never liked resprays,they can cover a multitude of sins.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120448-inexpensive-s1/#findComment-2234716
Share on other sites

hey alex as said above i think the initial exclusiveness of the stageas when we purchased ours over 18 months ago and the lack of cars to choose from made the caryards be able to say a purchase price they want as if u dont like it u simply dont get one.

series 2's are now making series 1's cheap as hell which isnt good considering they are pretty much the same except the neo engine and a few cosmetic changes.

that black one with the "photos available after purchase" is pretty rude in my opinion and that just shows there is things they are trying to hide in the couple of pics supplied so be wary.

series 1 front ends look 100 times better but and i reckon more series 2 owners will want the series 1 grille and thats about all thats better on the s1's.

does anyone know how many autech stageas were made by any chance? i read 100 but there are about 10 or more in oz ive heard and read about i doubt its only 100 and more like 500 or more?? im sure jake32 would know?

Edited by CruiseLiner
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120448-inexpensive-s1/#findComment-2234768
Share on other sites

the s2 stagea i'm interested in is only 930,000 yen, i thought that was pretty bloody cheap!

930,000yen

Is that FOB, if not add another 90-100,000

I paided 505,000FOB for my series 2 with full body kit and a few other extra's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120448-inexpensive-s1/#findComment-2235052
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...