Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB26 D20423A

I ordered a motor and it is supposed to be R33 RB26DETT. Above is the engine number that i requested from them. Was wondering if anyone can tell me if it really is a 33. Specifically someone who has the FAST software and maybe they could run the number through it and let me know. Any help would be great. Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120933-need-to-know-generation/
Share on other sites

RB26 D20423A

I ordered a motor and it is supposed to be R33 RB26DETT. Above is the engine number that i requested from them. Was wondering if anyone can tell me if it really is a 33. Specifically someone who has the FAST software and maybe they could run the number through it and let me know. Any help would be great. Thanks guys.

My engine no is RB26 038604A from a late 93 R32.. Hope this also helps.

wrxhoon - any idea how to decode the numbers without NISSAN FAST software? Do these numbers mean anything?

My engine no is RB26 038604A from a late 93 R32.. Hope this also helps.

wrxhoon - any idea how to decode the numbers without NISSAN FAST software? Do these numbers mean anything?

I don't think you can tell with Nissan fast how old the engine is by the number.

I have a list of engine numbers and the aproximate built date . You are correct in saying your engine was built in the second half of 93.

How sure are you that it is out of a 32? Just wondering cause the company knows i am going to be checking to make sure it is a 33 and they assure me it is from an r33. Also the reason i want a 33 is so that I dont have to deal with the small crank collar on the early 32s but i also heard that later 32s might not have this problem. Is there any truth in any of this? thanks

The updated / larger crank collar was fitted to late model R32's. My engine was recently stripped down (late 93 model) and its obviously got the larger crank collar. Ask the company to take off oil pump and check the collar..

OLD R32 crank (90 model)

post-26500-1149557228.jpg

NEW R32 crank (my late 93 model)

post-26500-1149557304.jpg

How sure are you that it is out of a 32? Just wondering cause the company knows i am going to be checking to make sure it is a 33 and they assure me it is from an r33. Also the reason i want a 33 is so that I dont have to deal with the small crank collar on the early 32s but i also heard that later 32s might not have this problem. Is there any truth in any of this? thanks

I'm fairly sure but i can't be 100% sure ( according to my records its a 32, second half of 91 actualy).

Have you got a pic of the engine? The engine may be out of a 33 but originaly was in a 32, someone may have fitted it in a 33. Later 32's do have the 33 crank.

I am doing the swap myself so when i get the motor I will be taking off the oil pan anyway since I need to use the rb25 unit. Is it possible to tell visually by just removing the oil pan? either way I will take pictures and post them up on here of the crank collar. Also I was wondering if the engine number I listed is exactly correct. Should the D be a 0? I had some trouble reading the hand writing of the guy who gave it to me.

Edited by BlackRBS13

how do you find out when the engine was made?

is there a function in fast that allows you to input the engine number get out details?

im sure my engine didnt orignally come from my gtr, and was just wondering......

my number is 057289A

steve

Edited by PHATR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome!  How long have you had it? And what colour is it?
    • "CAD" version 1.0 It will have a 15mm lip around the top for 6 × 5 or 6mm nutserts and fixtures (two on each of the three straight edges), and some pinch weld on any exposed edges, it has three mounting points, one of the power steering reservoir bolts, and two on the rad support, my 120mm hole saw will make short work of hole for the silicone joiner, with ample room for some pinch weld  I've also got enough Carbuilders "peel and stick" heat shield to cover the outside of it at the coolant expansion tank and on the engine side, as pictured, and internally on the lid and where the fuse box is, I've also got some thin, about 3mm, black 3M single sided sticky foam stuff that was left over after sealing some door drafts at home to help seal the lid As for the shape, it "sort of" matches the shape of the fuse box, so shouldn't look to "out of place" The lower area and hole for the intake will need pinch weld with a balloon on it to fully seal the hole and bottom of it, that will happen after it has been fabricated so I know exactly what size is required  Filter service has been trialed,  and so far it was a simple process  Just need to get some alloy, and then head into work to use the guillotine and break press in the workshop Hopefully it should be sorted in a week or two Guestimated outlay will be under a $50 for the stuff I don't have on hand (alloy, 6mm nutserts, the pinch weld, and wrinkle paint) Disclaimer: That's what the "voices in my head" are telling me how the filter box should end up getting done......lets see if they know what they are talking about  
    • Have been polishing up the trailer rims as they had been sitting in the shed for a few years and are really in need of some love. This was after a couple of passes with chrome polish - coming up quite well ✅ .
    • Welcome aboard! Is your Skyline auto or manual? I'm assuming manual. Does it have any mods done yet?
    • Hey mate, the brown and grey plugs would usually go to the TPS, brown one goes on the bottom connector and grey is the top but isn't used unless the car is auto, your TPS looks different to mine though I've got a series 2 engine.
×
×
  • Create New...