Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB26 D20423A

I ordered a motor and it is supposed to be R33 RB26DETT. Above is the engine number that i requested from them. Was wondering if anyone can tell me if it really is a 33. Specifically someone who has the FAST software and maybe they could run the number through it and let me know. Any help would be great. Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120933-need-to-know-generation/
Share on other sites

RB26 D20423A

I ordered a motor and it is supposed to be R33 RB26DETT. Above is the engine number that i requested from them. Was wondering if anyone can tell me if it really is a 33. Specifically someone who has the FAST software and maybe they could run the number through it and let me know. Any help would be great. Thanks guys.

My engine no is RB26 038604A from a late 93 R32.. Hope this also helps.

wrxhoon - any idea how to decode the numbers without NISSAN FAST software? Do these numbers mean anything?

My engine no is RB26 038604A from a late 93 R32.. Hope this also helps.

wrxhoon - any idea how to decode the numbers without NISSAN FAST software? Do these numbers mean anything?

I don't think you can tell with Nissan fast how old the engine is by the number.

I have a list of engine numbers and the aproximate built date . You are correct in saying your engine was built in the second half of 93.

How sure are you that it is out of a 32? Just wondering cause the company knows i am going to be checking to make sure it is a 33 and they assure me it is from an r33. Also the reason i want a 33 is so that I dont have to deal with the small crank collar on the early 32s but i also heard that later 32s might not have this problem. Is there any truth in any of this? thanks

The updated / larger crank collar was fitted to late model R32's. My engine was recently stripped down (late 93 model) and its obviously got the larger crank collar. Ask the company to take off oil pump and check the collar..

OLD R32 crank (90 model)

post-26500-1149557228.jpg

NEW R32 crank (my late 93 model)

post-26500-1149557304.jpg

How sure are you that it is out of a 32? Just wondering cause the company knows i am going to be checking to make sure it is a 33 and they assure me it is from an r33. Also the reason i want a 33 is so that I dont have to deal with the small crank collar on the early 32s but i also heard that later 32s might not have this problem. Is there any truth in any of this? thanks

I'm fairly sure but i can't be 100% sure ( according to my records its a 32, second half of 91 actualy).

Have you got a pic of the engine? The engine may be out of a 33 but originaly was in a 32, someone may have fitted it in a 33. Later 32's do have the 33 crank.

I am doing the swap myself so when i get the motor I will be taking off the oil pan anyway since I need to use the rb25 unit. Is it possible to tell visually by just removing the oil pan? either way I will take pictures and post them up on here of the crank collar. Also I was wondering if the engine number I listed is exactly correct. Should the D be a 0? I had some trouble reading the hand writing of the guy who gave it to me.

Edited by BlackRBS13

how do you find out when the engine was made?

is there a function in fast that allows you to input the engine number get out details?

im sure my engine didnt orignally come from my gtr, and was just wondering......

my number is 057289A

steve

Edited by PHATR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...