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hmm so anyway my car has (r32 gts-t type M rb20det) been getting crudder and crudder ever since i bought it. Especially since the FMIC install. Heres the problem. At about 5k RPM it starts popping and banging alot and stutters until it hits about 6krpm when it pulls very cleanly, as well as, at about 3k rpm in 3rd gear it stutters and jerks alot, especially up hills. Now i would straight away think to myself COIL PACKS.. Seeing as generally this is what this kind of trouble is attributed to (That and just then i started it up and im pretty sure it was only running on 5 cylinders for a couple of seconds, although it could have just been abnormally rough)

Now ive checked my intercooler hosing and it seems all good, but i do find it strange that it only happens at 5krpm and doesnt happen thtough to 6krpm like id expect it to if it were packs. I did take the packs out but they seemed pretty good (although i didnt look under the trumpet like boots)

Also i just timed the time it took to accelerate on a flat road in 2nd gear to go from 50km/h to 80km/h and it was about 6 seconds... these things are supposed to do 0-100 in that time arent they?

So what do you guys think it could be? anything i can check besides coil packs (which i cant see a way to readily check or at least cant think of a way to check)

Im planning on upgrading to a r33 turbo soon and wasnt sure if i should get all this tuned now or just try hold out until i get the new turbo then get a remap for it which i assume would fix any other things that could be causing the problem (Once again my limited knowledge of cars made after 85 is blocking my mental faculties a bit) Or should i get it tuned professionally now then the turbo installed then the remap?

Also is there a way to tell which packs arent working or are working inefficiently? That would probably save me quite a bit of money that a mechanic would charge for installation and new packs.

Please dont just reply with "COIL PACKS" , i know some wanker will

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
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lol....serioulsy mate, you don't just pull out the coil packs, look at them and say 'yep they look fine' and cram 'em back in. You need to do a resistance check to see if they are failing.

Using a multimeter, place the settings to ohms and put the terminals on the + and -. The resistance should be between 0.6 ohms and 0.9 ohms, however, anything up to 2 ohms can SOMETIMES still be ok. I have seen them operate efficiently at this reading. Try to test them when they are hot as this will give you a more accurate reading as sometimes they do not fail until they are hot.

The reason it only happens between 5 and 6 is because this is when your engine is producing it's maximum torque and most of the load is on the engine at that time. Same as when you are going up hills.

There is a posibility that it could be spark plugs, ign amplifier, wiring etc. but for a common fault I would start there....pull the plugs out anyway and inspect them....post detailed photos of them and I can tell you what your engine is doing.

Either do what I'm sure you could work out for yourself, get a set that you know are working and try them.

also, find out which pins should have what resistance and test with a multimeter. You can find that out with some google searches I imagine and I know you sure can in the workshop manual which I don't have.

ok, now i look like i copied the guy above, but can i please explain, the post to soooo long for me to complete cause the hot on on big brother with the fake boobies was about to go down on a dildo, so i was watching that obviously!!!!!! so i was unavoidablely detained... so u all know, u didn't miss out, the wanker dude with the stupid hair walked in so they laughed and she didn't do it!!!! she had that about to do it look tho... bugger

Edited by psybic

um which mechanics lend u a set thats working to test out O.O

dont have the workshop manual either and google turns up mainly results on r32 vw golfs, although im not very apt at navigating i suppose

but thankkks elite, ill check it out tomorow when the temperature reaches over 5 degrees

Edited by r32 gts-turbo

ohhh, ballocks on the big brother thing.

ill post some pics of the packs with no boots on em tomorow and will try work out which pins are positive and negative (assuming 2 are negative and 1 positive)

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
ohhh, ballocks on the big brother thing.

ill post some pics of the packs with no boots on em tomorow and will try work out which pins are positive and negative (assuming 2 are negative and 1 positive)

It's written on top of the coil pack where the wiring harness plugs in.

I've been in a mates car that has crapped out coil packs.

It was ok when cold but as soon as the motor would warm up it was nasty as as soon as it had some boost in to it.

You say it clears up at around 6k then pulls cleanly... This doesn't occur with stuffed coil packs, stuffed coil packs generally are worse as rpm and boost increases.

I once have had what you experience, as boost started to be made it would fart and carry on, then at higher rpm it would clean up and pull nicely. I had the plugs out a good 3 times before I noticed a nice hairline crack in a couple of the spark plugs. That was around 3years ago. TO this day and 210,000km's the coil packs are still ok.

I've been in a mates car that has crapped out coil packs.

It was ok when cold but as soon as the motor would warm up it was nasty as as soon as it had some boost in to it.

You say it clears up at around 6k then pulls cleanly... This doesn't occur with stuffed coil packs, stuffed coil packs generally are worse as rpm and boost increases.

I once have had what you experience, as boost started to be made it would fart and carry on, then at higher rpm it would clean up and pull nicely. I had the plugs out a good 3 times before I noticed a nice hairline crack in a couple of the spark plugs. That was around 3years ago. TO this day and 210,000km's the coil packs are still ok.

My post explains why it goes away after 6k

hmm so anyway my car has (r32 gts-t type M rb20det) been getting crudder and crudder ever since i bought it. Especially since the FMIC install. Heres the problem. At about 5k RPM it starts popping and banging alot and stutters until it hits about 6krpm when it pulls very cleanly, as well as, at about 3k rpm in 3rd gear it stutters and jerks alot, especially up hills. Now i would straight away think to myself COIL PACKS.. Seeing as generally this is what this kind of trouble is attributed to (That and just then i started it up and im pretty sure it was only running on 5 cylinders for a couple of seconds, although it could have just been abnormally rough)

Now ive checked my intercooler hosing and it seems all good, but i do find it strange that it only happens at 5krpm and doesnt happen thtough to 6krpm like id expect it to if it were packs. I did take the packs out but they seemed pretty good (although i didnt look under the trumpet like boots)

Also i just timed the time it took to accelerate on a flat road in 2nd gear to go from 50km/h to 80km/h and it was about 6 seconds... these things are supposed to do 0-100 in that time arent they?

So what do you guys think it could be? anything i can check besides coil packs (which i cant see a way to readily check or at least cant think of a way to check)

Im planning on upgrading to a r33 turbo soon and wasnt sure if i should get all this tuned now or just try hold out until i get the new turbo then get a remap for it which i assume would fix any other things that could be causing the problem (Once again my limited knowledge of cars made after 85 is blocking my mental faculties a bit) Or should i get it tuned professionally now then the turbo installed then the remap?

Also is there a way to tell which packs arent working or are working inefficiently? That would probably save me quite a bit of money that a mechanic would charge for installation and new packs.

Please dont just reply with "COIL PACKS" , i know some wanker will

I had this exact same problem after my FMIC was fitted. Not directly after because autobarn did a shit job on the pipework and I had boost leaks in the piping, but once I realised the piping was crap, I took it all out and redid it, pusing te lips in far enough to properly clamp behind the hoseclamps etc.

When I did this I noticed my boost had increased on its own from ~9.5psi to 11psi. This is when I personally started to notice the missfire. Mine started at 4500rpm and happend until about 5500rpm at which point it smoothed off and was fine to 7500rpm. It would also, like yours, only do it under high load, especially up hills, or wide open throttle. If I revved through to 7500 from idle at say, 50% or 70% throttle, it wouldn't missfire.

I was told "coil packs" by every single person I consulted, both forum and RL. I inspected all my packs and found that the carbon shim attached to the spring that contacts the top of the plug, in my #5, was literally burnt in half. I replaced this coil pack and the missfire toned down a bit but still persisted and I was getting a black fouling up type build up on the top of the #5 plug and bottom of the carbon shim. I then moved the plug in #5 to cyl #1 to see if it was the plug or the coil or whatever. The fouling up followed the plug, so my assumption is that when the coilpack died, probably from a voltage surge or something, it damaged the plug's integrity as well. My problem was fixed by regapping my plugs to 0.8mm. I was using NGK 5 heat range iridiums, not the best plugs to be using anyway with that heat range on them I know now :P

Shortly after this happened I bought a manual boost controller and upped my boost to 14psi, and once again I had missfire problems :) I've been through hell trying to fix this shit, I've taped up my coil pack rubber feet, the coil pack housings, replaced my 5 heat range iridiums with NGK BCPR7ES (0.8mm 7heat range coppers), fiddled with boost settings to no end. In the end I discovered I hadn't properly tightened the plugs, I'd given them a finger tightening then another 1/2 turn (Like I did in my previous N/A cars). I found that I could, with almost no effort on my socket wrench, tighten them a good 3-4 turns more before they actually bit down into the head, that's when I gave them another 1/4 turn and stopped. This seemed to get rid of the majority of my problems.

Currently running 13psi with no missfires unless ambient temp gets under 18 degrees or so. I attribute this to the fact that my coils/igniter or just my ignition system in general is just old. I mean 16 years now, they've had a good life. Splitfires, 040 Fuelpump and a regulator will be absolutely first on my list once my current debts are paid >_<

Sorry if the last 2 paragraphs were drivvel to you, I just thought you might up your boost and run into the same thing, and if you read it now it might help then.

The thread I asked my questions on after turning the boost up, just in case you wanted to take a look :P

Ben.

Edited by Hakai
Yep so you have experienced it clean up over 6k?

My experience wasn't the same.

I have had coil packs behaving differently nearly every time but most of them had the same complaint of coming clean after 6k. Always ended up being the packs.

The trouble with diagnosing things over the internet is that I take for granted that I have the knowledge to solve any of my problems but also assume that people, at least, know the basics. I assume simple things like spark plugs checked, fuel filter changed, pipework checked for leaks has already been done before a person asks a question on these forums. Whether it ever happens that way...I'm not sure.

I have had coil packs behaving differently nearly every time but most of them had the same complaint of coming clean after 6k. Always ended up being the packs.

The trouble with diagnosing things over the internet is that I take for granted that I have the knowledge to solve any of my problems but also assume that people, at least, know the basics. I assume simple things like spark plugs checked, fuel filter changed, pipework checked for leaks has already been done before a person asks a question on these forums. Whether it ever happens that way...I'm not sure.

I guess that's why my posts are so long :P

I don't know enough to assume other people know anything so I just get it all out there so I don't miss anything lol.

Hell I screwed up something as easy as tightening a spark plug, just because I "thought" that's what I was supposed to do because that's how it was in my other engines, or was it? Maybe I was wrong all along and since they were n/a engines it never caused a problem, ugh... Horrible thought, well I know now don't I.

Ben.

nice, I myself had the same problem, after wrapping the plugs, gapping them, checking them. I found that it was none of this. In fact after removing my fuel filter I found that it was so dirty that when fuel was rushing through it at high rpm, it would block it up and restrict the fuel, and leaning it right out.

jus thought u should check it out to mate.

nice, I myself had the same problem, after wrapping the plugs, gapping them, checking them. I found that it was none of this. In fact after removing my fuel filter I found that it was so dirty that when fuel was rushing through it at high rpm, it would block it up and restrict the fuel, and leaning it right out.

jus thought u should check it out to mate.

I still need to check my fuel filter. Where is it on an R32, anyone got an easy explanation or a pic or link to pics on a previous thread lol?

Ben.

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