Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I just wrote a huge post about whats happening but the f**kin forum shit itself :laugh:;) So its getting late and im going to shorten it

Problem: In the mornings, cold starts are a bitch, only when cold.. the engine starts fine when warmish/warm. When you preceed to start the car in the morning, it tries to start, stalls, tries to start, stalls does this around 5-10 times depending on how cold it is. When you blip the throttle to try to get it to start, and when once started, it goes into cold start mode (idling at 2000-1500rpm) perfectly.

Things I have done to try and solve the problem:

Cleaned all electrical things (AFM etc.)

Cleaned Injectors (sonically)

Changed sparkies (coppers gapped at .8)

Changed the coolant temperature sensor (is working fine according to my carmanscan pro, when you do the actuation test and lower the temp the computer see's, it retards the timing so its working fine)

Cleaned throttle body and components on manifold (fully cleaned TB and AAC valve (pulled the AAC valve fully apart and cleaned).)

After doing all of these things, its still doing it. One thing I did notice to be very strange is that when I disconnect the plug completely off the coolant temp sensor, it starts like it should (sends the computer into a default mode) which indicates to me that the sensor was frooked, but its not as it has been replaced.

Is there anything else to do with the cold start side of things that I can test/replace/clean????

Im really really stumped, and so is the rest of the workshop I work with.. ;)

I was doing some searching but didnt find a solid answer..

PLEASE PLEASE HELP GUYS!! I'm getting quite distrought about this... if a god damn V6 commodore can start in the morning first hit, why can't my skyline:(

Any help would be muchly appreciated.. Thanks guys..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121386-cold-start-problem-again/
Share on other sites

Dont know if this is of any help but check ALL your hoses.

My car was stalling for a while and I was gobsmacked... I checked fuel filter, changed spark plugs and checked coils coils, checked AFM...then we spotted a hose was off the carbon canister which vacums air inside... its all good now.

Edited by Sir-D

there are a few people suffering the same problem.. and no-one knows a real answer.. thanks for the replies guys, i dont have any vacuum leaks (rebuilt the engine, replaced nearly all hoses)... and done the ecu reset many-a-time no good.

OK.. this might sound stupid.. but after i got the injectors cleaned.. it was good for about a day.. then it started again.. I guess next thing is to replace all the injectors... damn thats gonna be a big hole in the pocket.. and if its not that im gonna cry :|

Hi Guys, Im getting the exact problem. I turned the idle screw a little bit up and it start for about a month and then when it started getting colder it started doing the same thing.

However saying that I know approximately how many turns the engine should start in, so what ive been doin the past few days to get over the problem at the point where i know it is meant to start, at that very moment i step on the accelerator to the floor and it starts fine.........

Just though id share this info

sorry off topic...

how much did it cost you to get your injectors cleaned?

for me? about 130 bux.. BUT I did all the work myself (apprentice mechanic).. its approx 20 each injector plus seals and maybe pintle caps. So ur looking at around 3hrs labour I would say at around 65-85 bux depending...

cold start solenoid is ur problem thats what fixed mine

could u pls tell me where abouts its located, and also, any idea how to test whether this solenoid has given in.....cuz am having the same problem, and couldnt figure out what was wrong........

It would be worth checking that the air regulator is operating correctly. In addition to the AAC valve the air regulator is also used to bypass additional air around the throttle body when the engine is cold. Whereas the AAC is controlled via the ECU the air regulator operates independently of the ECU and is a somewhat simple device which has a 12V feed. When cold the air regulator will open and gradually close when the ambient temperature rises. It should be closed when the ambient temp gets to about 60 degs.

The air regulator maybe blocked with crap or not operating at all.

I have attached a photo of what it looks like. On the RB20's it is located adjacent the injectors under the throttle body and on the RB25's it sits on the underside of the intake manifold directly above the oil filter/oil cooler.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

post-16836-1150094326.jpg

post-16836-1150094377.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...