Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item:

HOLDEN BY DESIGNS badged from factory. id plate in engine bay

10/03model SS VY UTE

5.7ltr

6speed manual

phantom black

hard cover tonneu

55000kms

tinted windows

new HSV car mats

new HSV binnacle centre gauges

6 stack cd, alpine v12 amps, splits, and 2x 12' subs with full custom install worth over $2500

full two way electric sunroof worth $2000

all chev badges from the states.

MOTOR:

motor has just been rebuild with less than 10000kms on it,

mild port and polish head work

comp cam model number: 54-416-11 220/224 cam

comp valve springs model number: 26915-16

ARP rod bolts

billet 80mm trottle body,

OTRCAI air filter system

red LS1 engine covers

pacemaker 4/2/1 extractors

twin 2/5' exhaust system

brand new 3.4.6 diff from holdern, under warranty

LS1 EDIT computer

car dynoed at PITTS DYNO PERFORMANCE around 250- 260rkw

car runs on BP ULTIMATE all the time

EXTERIOR:

20X8.5' RIMS IN FRONT AND 20X9' REARS 225/35/20' AND 245/35/20'S ALL BRAND NEW 2 PEICE RIMS WORTH $4000

HSV front headlights original, and orginal plastic vy HSV clubspot front bar with fog lights

full lowered suspention with king springs, shocks, all notherline bushes, etc spend over $2200 on suspention, also has poly airbags to raise rear suspention for towing if needed and suited for 20' rims.

car has heavy duty tow bar fitted,

this is one of the nicest utes getting around on the gold coast and has spent over 25k on mods alone, and will supply roadworthy, car has logbooks and has extended 8yr warranty.

also have the rest of the hsv maloo kit which is not shown in pics.

Location:

GOLD COAST

Reason for Selling: need four doors,

Price and Payment Conditions: $36900 or nearest offer

Contact Details: pm me for details.

post-1798-1149742180.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121484-vy-ss-ute-on-20s-with-350kw/
Share on other sites

I've seen this car a few times. Sounds nice, and looks better. Chris just cant do things by halfs. So whoever buys it is going to have a fairly new car, nicely modded, which has been well looked after.

Good luck with the sale, hope its soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...