Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SERIOUSLY! I'm sure someone here can help. half of you seem to be extremely knowledgable. PLEASE HELP!

The symptoms you describe indicate that the bulb-check-relay is energising, this only happens when the alternator isn't charging (or isn't appearing to be charging).

Now there could be several things causing this fault, the alternator, the wiring or the relay itself.

Realistally te alternator needs to be tested for correct voltage output when on the car & possibly also bench-tested by your local sparky.

The bulb-check circuit has the benefit of being a really big, confusing voltage warning system, so if you miss the little picture of the battery glowing, the rest of the dash lights are still staring you in the face!

All is sorted!

Ok I got another alternator to put in and I installed it. Started the vehicle and the lights were still on...

So I went back and looked at the wiring and I saw that the wire going from the alternator to the starter motor was half melted and had soldered itself together to the crimps and the wire was corroded green. So I replaced that and everything is fine now.

So maybe all along the problem was just that wire...

good to hear you found the problem. I did mention to check the charge wire on the back of the alt. Its not uncommon for them to come loose, alot less common for them to burn out!

yep sounds like a charging problem. could be as simple as the fan belt loose/slipping, or wire fallen off the back of the alternator. Or it could be the alternator itself, but it pays to chack the basics first...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...