Jump to content
SAU Community

Tyres For My Rims... ?

Xizor

By Xizor,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

Xizor Mentor

Xizor

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

I am looking to get some 18" StarCorp Impuls shadow chrome rims for my r33 s2. I have only now just discovered falken 451's are not around anymore. So i am stumped. I had decided that was what i wanted to get and am now clueless. What other current tyres are around that are as good as the 451's and not anymore expensive? I want something farely good in dry and wet conditions and that will last a while. :)

FYI i plan to get 235/18/40 all around... if there is nothing wrong with that?

Edited by Xizor
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122061-tyres-for-my-rims/
Share on other sites
d00dz Grand Master

d00dz

Posted
Posted
Yeah i have and based on that i had decided Falken 451's without a doubt, but they are no longer an option. I am guessing maybe Toyo T1R but not sure how good they are re: longivity?

They are great, well worth the money IMO. Getting a second set of rims for track days with semis on em so I dont have to rip up the T1Rs.

235/40/18 for T1Rs might be about 350-380 per corner I think.

d00dz Grand Master

d00dz

Posted
Posted
Ok so another idea to combat costs.

Is it ok to put different tyres on the front compared to the rear? ie T1R on rear, cheaper stuff on fronts?

Yeah many people do, But i dont. Then im weird :)

Can you get impuls rims in 17"?

Why would you? :P

18s & implus are too overated. 17"'s are the right size

ToF Experienced

ToF

Posted
Posted
Ok so another idea to combat costs.

Is it ok to put different tyres on the front compared to the rear? ie T1R on rear, cheaper stuff on fronts?

Not sure if it's a good idea, but I'll be doing it :P

But wouldn't it be wiser to put the better tyres, ie. T1R on the front instead, and have the cheaper tyres on the rear. Steering is pretty important imo, you don't want to be understeering in the wet...

Having crap tyres on the back is OK, if you know your limits. (BTW: I don't mean "bald hektic skidz tyres", by crap I mean cheaper but decent tyres compared to top stuff)

n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

I've been quoted between 1100-1200 for a set of 18s. 235 fronts 265 rears. Probably not many reviews around as they have just been released. They are the improved version of the 451s so I can only assume they are better. And plus they come highly recommended by guy that frequents track days.

Check this out they even have a website dedicated to this model specifically :P

If you chk out the thread patterns its a combination of the ST115 and 451.

http://www.fk452.com/technicalinfo.html

R34GTX Rising Star

R34GTX

Posted
Posted
get the new model falken FK452! Its already out and from what i've heard and seen, the thread design is a combination of the ST115 and FK451. Well priced too...I'll be getting my set in about a mths time.

I have read that the FK452 are pretty good in the dry, but are fairly average in the wet. If I can find the link again, I will print it up!!!

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted
oh god that is way out of my budget then. I want to spend under $300 each.

$300 a corner for 18" tyres is not that much if you want to buy decent sports tyres, which you apparently do.

The decidedly average Bridgestone Potenza RE040s that came with my car are almost $400 each in 245/45 R18. The best road tyres around, the Michelin Pilot Sports, are over $700 each in that dimension.

I spend $300 a corner on my 17" tyres. The RE040s cost that much. The grey import Potenza RE-01's were around that price. As were the Dunlop DZ101s I previously used. Same with the Sumitomo HRTZ III's I am considering for my next set of tyres.

You could probably get Nankang or some other shithouse tyre in 18" for that price, but I can't say too much about how well they'll work.

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted

My mate ran ROH Drift-R's on his S15 for a couple of years. No issues with them. The finish was still as good as you could reasonably hope for, they didn't buckle or anything.

They're just heavy (if that's a concern of yours).

Xizor Mentor

Xizor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just been out to a few tyre and rim places... there isnt really jack shit in 17's out there. They are all narrow rims except for 2 sets of Lenso's i didnt mind, but that was it. And to be honest i didnt like them THAT much because they were polished metal/silver or something... looked pretty average compared to shadow chrome. Oh well, might have to just get 18's after all!!!

  • 2 weeks later...
bpd80 Newbie

bpd80

Posted
Posted

I have just fitted a set of brisgestone 255/35/18 so-3's to my 32 GTR and i have to say i am absolutely thrilled with them. it rained the first week i had them and they surprised me everytime i pushed the car to what i thought were its limits. I couldnt wait for some clear weather to see how the perform in the dry. and they are equally as good. they seem to grip incredibly well even when cold. THis isnt the first set of so-3's i have had, but they are significantly better than the 235/45/17's i had on a VS GTS. I have heard many people say the so-2's were better and in the 17's that may be the case but with the smaller 35 sidewall they are very very good... So thats my 10 cents worth hope it helps. I also advise against the pirelli p-zero rosso's, dont last, very slippery when cold. had them in 245/35/19's on VX GTS. wont do the holden thing again though, they need more help than good tyres!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • EndZee
      R33 Gts/-t Abs Module Wiring Schematic (not Gt-r)

      By EndZee · Posted

      Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...