Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Security,

How did the new lifter feel? Were you able to push it in and out?

I have roughly half of a set of 24 lifters that are able to squeeze in and out freely, others some are simply solid and a few are able to move slightly.

My old man said his ol HQ hydraulic lifters were solid and that you shouldn't be able to squeeze them in and out.

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

dont muck around with trying to fix them. if you inspect them all carefully you'll be able to see which ones are stuffed, if not dont worry about replacing them. i'll post pics tomorrow on what the stuffed one on mine looked like.

You said you blew them out? Maybe pumped air in to them?

I have a set of lifters soaking in diesel and appears to have really pulled quite a bit of crap out of them, the little hole on the top and side I can see a little stream of black crud.

One of the 24 lifters felt as if it was a little stuck so it will be interesting if it fix's it or not.

I'll give the kero a go.

I had thought about heading down to bunnings and picking up some toluene for the clean.

Yes Toluene is pretty damn nasty... :spank:

I'll stick with the diesel and kero.

I've never had any dealings with lifters before.

How are they supposed to feel? I'm assuming they are supposed to pump in and out easily, I have a 8 that are nice and free where as some of the other move a little and some are completely stuck.

still curious if this is the best way to clean the lifters out, im thinking i should start soaking the set from the spare head i have at home, so that they are useable when the motor is together.

also curious on hoy the lifters should feel when not under pressure.. should they be stiff or move freely?

still curious if this is the best way to clean the lifters out, im thinking i should start soaking the set from the spare head i have at home, so that they are useable when the motor is together.

also curious on hoy the lifters should feel when not under pressure.. should they be stiff or move freely?

You can clean them with kero if you like but you must bleed them if you don't they may not bleed themselves.

The best way to bleed them, submerge them in oil upright, get a thin strong wire put it in the whole and press it down then pump the lifter with your hand ( while holding the wire pressed) until all the little bubbles go. When the lifter is bled it will be very hard, you wont be able to push it down after you take the wire out.

You can clean them with kero if you like but you must bleed them if you don't they may not bleed themselves.

The best way to bleed them, submerge them in oil upright, get a thin strong wire put it in the whole and press it down then pump the lifter with your hand ( while holding the wire pressed) until all the little bubbles go. When the lifter is bled it will be very hard, you wont be able to push it down after you take the wire out.

Thanks for that :spank:

anychance you can dumb it down a little more?

upright being cam lobe side up?

whole = oil feed hole in the side of the lifter?

cheers

Thanks for that :)

anychance you can dumb it down a little more?

upright being cam lobe side up?

whole = oil feed hole in the side of the lifter?

cheers

Yes, the way its in the cyl head, thats upright, i never plyed around with rb25 lifters but usully the whole is on the top of the lifter( Sr20 are like that so i asume rb25's will be the same )

You should also measure the lifters for wear/ clearances, when you install them start the engine and run it for a few minutes without load, if they are not quiet after that they more than likely need replacing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am probably calling this too early but I think I found what part of my problem is. I have a couple of dents that are fairly close to each other and I tried to fix them individually. Recently I put one larger coat across all the dents and sanded it and for the first time ever it's all even except for the edge where the bare metal is, I just need to put some putty there. I'm ordering some better longer blocks that are more flexible. Other good news is that the other repairs on my panel are flat even with the guidecoat. It's these 2 dents which are an absolute c*nt l lol.
    • Murray will have better input, but I'd be going with less filler, and aimed at the low spots mainly, and hence won't need as much sanding, which then means get the guide coat on earlier. That's how I'd do it, BUT, I'm not a pro, I'm a DIY hack who will then get the shits halfway through, and have one spot awesomely repaired, and the other spots look like a 3 year old was left unsupervised with workshop tools...
    • Where is the most common place to locate it? Disappointing that Garrett won’t make a fitting for it since they know everyone will use it
    • A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
×
×
  • Create New...