Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's only happened since Bosimporting changed manufacturers for their SS split front/dump pipes, basically instead of having an open mouth and a splitter, on the dump pipe flange, they've changed it to a pipe that actually fits inside the exhaust outlet on the turbo (to achieve a good seal).

As most of you know the highflowed turbo has a much larger exhaust outlet, so the pipe on the dump pipe flange is way too small now.

What I had to do was, take my split front/dump and get the pipe removed and the hole enlarged for the exhaust outlet, and have a splitter welded in.

Heres some pics that will help explain it.

The original style, with open mouth and splitter (will suit highflow)

post-17348-1150439647.jpg

And the new style (which i think is only with the SS one) Give Michael @ BOS a call and he'll confirm it,

they may be doing them all like this now, i don't know.

post-17348-1150439913.jpg

Edited by beastien
  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Could you please explain? i've just gotten myself a hi-flo, and i thought they used the exact same turbo housing as the standard turbo. why would this mean any standard dump pipe wouldn't work? i've got a custom mild steel dump, nothing flash but i just don't want to have to fork out for mods to my exhaust if this turbo is different

The current trend in split dumps is to extend the turbine pipe past the flange and inside the turbine cover. It fits neatly/tightly inside the turbine cover. This stops any chance of wastegate exhaust contaminating the flow (causing turbulence) from the turbine. The more common style has a little bridge that is welded to the dump pipe flange and stops 99% of the cross contamination. The pipe extension is a better system, it stops 100%.

The problem with the pipe extension style of dump is when you get the turbo high flowed they machine out the turbine cover and the extension pipe is then too small to fit tightly/neatly into the larger hole.

So if you are intending to get a high flow later on you need to order the more common style with the bridge that fits both standard and high flow turbine covers.

:rofl: cheers :)

I have just ordered a SS split dump with the pipe extension. I do not intend to hi-flow the turb so am happy with it as is. However, is there any reason in the future why the pipe could not be shortened from its current length, or modified to suit?

ahh, i get it. no worries on my end then, i don't have that flange. old school!
However, is there any reason in the future why the pipe could not be shortened from its current length, or modified to suit?

It can be modified, this is what i had to get done, the pipe can just be shortened, but the hole has to be enlarged to suit the larger exhaust housing outlet on the turbo, and a splitter welded in to separate the wastgate gasses.

It was basically a big hassle for me, had to take the pipe to get modified, took a couple of days, cost $150, and was far from a straight swap over, which installing a highflow normally is.

Just my angle, I don't think you would go from what you have to a split now Brendan but maybe from standard this is a better option?

Luke

For sure; always comes down to budget & cash at hand, tho.

So, if you've got $500 to grab a split dump system then sure do it.... when I did my first bout of tuning it was all about being on a tight budget at the time, and still is.

I can sell my dump pipe at anytime and uprade, but really at this stage of the cars tune (160akw) its a hole and flows thru exhaust gasses pretty damn well for its price.

Just waiting until the time is right. :(

ok, this infromation is great thanks for the responses, but the turbo that is on my car is at GCG GT30, will i still have to modify the dump?

If you can get the pipe with an open mouth and splitter (like the first of the pictures i posted) it'll fit no worries.

Talk to michael at BOS Importing, tell him what turbo you have, and i'm sure he will sort it out for you.

well i just picked up my exhaust from Unique AutoSports in castle hill,

i got the catco metal inside cat, and a mild steel split dump pipe, with ceramic coating.

I spoke to John at UAS, he is very helpful and knows his stuff.

anyways, here are some pics

06-06-19_19-02.jpg

06-06-19_19-04.jpg

06-06-19_19-03.jpg

EGA when you get the dump and cat fitted can you please let us know whether it is a noticeable power upgrade?

How did the front mount feel once fitted over the side mount?

Also is the dump that you bought suit Hi Flow Turbo`s?

Edited by FLYSLY
Hey Ega, dump pipes are like people, they dont breath too well with plastic bags over their heads. :D .....hah ha :huh:

I know, it's late and I'm tired...

lol, i'll try to remember to take it off when i get it installed Darrin.

EGA when you get the dump and cat fitted can you please let us know whether it is a noticeable power upgrade?

How did the front mount feel once fitted over the side mount?

Also is the dump that you bought suit Hi Flow Turbo`s?

yeah no worries. i'll post it up once i get it done

front mount made a slight difference but at the stage im at with mods, it is mostly a cosmetic upgrade, if i was making more power then im sure it would make more of a difference.

will suit high flow fine

sweet well i got a pm from batmbl today and he said that there will be a group buy on stainless dump/front to suit r33 and 32 stags etc... soon so will be purchasing one then

the stainless steel one from BATMBL is not suitable for a high flow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...