Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

i am planning on buying an rb25det gearbox this week.

if there is anyone else in melb who wants one too.

then we can buy 2 at the same time, and its sure to lower the price of one. (as they are pretty dear to start with)

they want around 1100 for a box, so we could get it for under a grand if we went together.

let me know, as this week is when i am buying one.

cheers

for an r33 i reckon it could be done for around $1500 if ya did the labour yourself. but it would depend how much you picked up some other the stuff.

e.g

box $1000 (with clutch flywheel, gearstick, crossmember)

tailshaft $250

pedals $150

clutch master, lines, slave, knob. $100

anyways i need an r33 box, and i been to a couple of places so far. they showed no room for negotiation so they dont get my money, which i was willing to hand over right there and then.

BUt i need a box, so come on. someone must have one.

and who actually wants to sell it, for reasonable price.

im in negotiation rite now tho

the guy wants 3500 to 4000 bux to do the converting

thats labor and all

im trying to pull down the price tho. like give him my gear box and stuff.and might do the labor myself.

but he will be importing half a car to do the job.

damn but i was planning to get the job done in about 6 weeks

converting what?

manual to auto. or what a whole engine and gearbox?

do the work yourself will be cheaper.

on another note.

does anyone know if a auto starter motor can be used with the manual gearbox. i have seen nothing on the conversions things to do list.

but... just wanna know

guy in sydney got his done for $2000 all up inc labour box and new clutch which is a bargain. 3500 - 4000 is a rip was that ice??

try new fujima for gearbox got one from them at it was awesome I'd rather pay $1200 for a good one than $900 for a shit one.

I did mine for $2600. I supp ICE my car with no motor and box, they did the pedal box and master cylinder and supp the box with brand new heavy duty exedy clutch and other bits and I put it all in with my bro in law on the ground was fun(not) but worth it, after that I got it towed to the auto elec ICE recommended and that cost all up 80 bucks took him about a day. It would've cost me an easy $3500 if I didn't do it...bonus other than saving quite a bit of money was the knowledge I gained from this conversion as I am no mechanic. ;)

a few things.

1) reverse lights

2) speedo drive is diff from auto to manwell.,

3) remove inhibitor swtich on auto otherwise no starto!!!

not sure about tacho... auto computer runs the manual fine ..

if you wanna do it yourself good luck but for the money I paid the auto elec I think it was cheap....

other handy hints on r33 its much easier if engine is out.. pressing is there for slave clylinder but will need to drill holes, fitting the pedal box is a bitch holes are all there though you need to drop the steering col hope u like being upside down for a while hehhehe. also will need to drill the spigot bush thingo out of the auto trans which is a bitch of a job also you will need a decent drill and drill bit. thinks thats it oh and also the clutch cable from the slave cylinder as well..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...