Jump to content
SAU Community

Intermittant 4wd & A-lsd Check Light In Gtr34 V-spec

GTR34-Vspec
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR34-Vspec Apprentice

GTR34-Vspec

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

After reading most of your nice advices about the 4wd check light problems in the gtr32s to help to solve mine (gtr34 v-spec), unlucky nothing seems nere. Here is the problem that I've been noticing:

Usuallly, when it's cool (ambient temperature/left overnight), it ocurred less often. Sometimes, just started the engine for awhile, the 4WD and A-LSD check light came on at the same time either on stationay (while idling) or rolling on a constant speed. Tried to turn the engine off/on, the check lights went off and came back on after awhile. How come, these two check lights came on together??

I've checked the fuses in the egine bay + driver's kick panel, fluid level, the relay to the fluid pump motor. They are all fine. One thing I haven't checked is the pump motor cause I wasn't sure how to.

I had an advice that, have a ATTESA computer diagnostic test, but I'd love to sort the problem out with your advices if it's possible before bring the car to a mechanic.

So please advice me how to solve this problem, THANKS GUYS !!!

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

well I've not had a look at the 34 computer, have a look at it (in the boot under the parcel shelf). when the 4wd light is on there will be an LED flashign a code number. Check the code number to the list of error messages in the 32 GTR workshop manual.

All on the assumption it works the same as a 32, my guess is the computer will still show error codes to help with problems like this.

All the other solutions like fluid, bleeding etc won't really help if the 4wd light is on. Most likely cause is a poor earth / bad voltage somewhere for intermittent problems like this.

GTR34-Vspec Apprentice

GTR34-Vspec

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Duncan,

I think you're right about the wirings. Yesterday, when it was in good condition, I tried to shake the wire loom near the pump => the check light poped up => turn off the engine => shake again => turn on => check light was gone. So, very high chance it's somewhere there. I'll strip it down on the weekend and I'll update to you later.

Cheers!!!

GTR34-Vspec Apprentice

GTR34-Vspec

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys !!

I've found where the intermittant bastard is !!! The water and corrosion contaminated on the connector of the fluid pump side. The voltage got leaked and shorted intermittantly caused the 4wd and

a-lsd check light came up. Just disassemble the connectors to clean the corrosion => DONE => THE GOZILLA IS HEALTHY AGAIN !!!

CHEERS!!!

  • 3 years later...
Nosure Proficient

Nosure

Posted
Posted
Hey guys !!

I've found where the intermittant bastard is !!! The water and corrosion contaminated on the connector of the fluid pump side. The voltage got leaked and shorted intermittantly caused the 4wd and

a-lsd check light came up. Just disassemble the connectors to clean the corrosion => DONE => THE GOZILLA IS HEALTHY AGAIN !!!

CHEERS!!!

Hi mate I got a same problem as you. can you point out where is the connector??? front?? in the boot??

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

you don't really want to know....there are orange and grey connectors on top of the attessa pump. which is on top of the diff. don't think you will have much luck getting to it without dropping the subframe.

Nosure Proficient

Nosure

Posted
Posted
you don't really want to know....there are orange and grey connectors on top of the attessa pump. which is on top of the diff. don't think you will have much luck getting to it without dropping the subframe.

thanks mate, so how long it will take if let workshop do it?

Nosure Proficient

Nosure

Posted
Posted
you don't really want to know....there are orange and grey connectors on top of the attessa pump. which is on top of the diff. don't think you will have much luck getting to it without dropping the subframe.

I found the pump is just under the right rear of the car i clean and replug it. the light not come up for 15kms so far. so maybe fixed.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

sorry not sure how long it would take a workshop with a hoist.....would take me an hour to drop the subframe and 1/2 to raise it again but that has been on and off a few times.

definately a job to get someone else to do :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...