Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My cigarette lighter adaptor is broken. (not the actual lighter itself) but the bit where it plugs things into it.

I have tried using the car charger (for mobile phone) and also the the ciggy lighter... all doesn't work

i have a feeling that i might of blown a fuse or something..

i have opened up the fuse panel underneath the steering wheel panel and there seems to be alot of fuses, and the diagram for the fuses are all written in japanese.

any ideas?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125760-cigaretter-lighter-broken/
Share on other sites

I have noticed this with mine a while back.. as yet haven't bothered to fix it.

I am thinking that when I installed my deck and ran new wires, I broke the circuit to it. Maybe the deck and the cig lighter get power from the same loom?

can someone confirm or deny this?

good luck with it

Actually, i noticed that my ciggy lighter was broken too after the i installed the deck last week as well.

When i installed it, i heard some noises like beep beep (same sound as to where the keys are in the ignition and the doors are open). And i thought to myself... (oh..shit...). I didn't think too much of it after i got the deck working.

It was only yesterday i noticed that my ciggy lighter is broken.

(BTW, i have a R33)

i would really appreciate a translated fuse diagram if there is one. As i think the most likely cause would be a fuse....

Stick a torch in the fuse box and check for broken fuses.

or (If its abit hard) what I do is take out each fuse one by one and see which one is broken remembering where they go back.

Fuse diagram is also nice i think Ive seen one around somewhere. Do a search? :

Test each fuse in there... if you have a multimeter. It should only take 5 minutes.

Otherwise, the ciggy lighter gets power and earth from the same loom as the HU. It runs through a loom tube through the front of the facia, then under the gear-surround and into the socket. Might want to check that for power, as it could just be the contacts in the socket are too bent.

My ciggy lighter gets warm, but not hot enough to like my smoke when i've lost my lighter (annoying!). So I figure that it's a contact issue for my car at least.

R34 lighter stays inside the socket until it gets VERY HOT and pops out... I'm always afraid I might miss the hole and burn something when putting it back.

I had a non working lighter socket before, turned out being a disconnected wire (they used some sort of clip which came loose).

Yeah, all the lighters i've ever used work like that. My R33 however, doesn't stay in. I thought it might be a safety thing that you have to hold it in, but then it could get too hot or something. Might have to sus this out sometime.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...