Jump to content
SAU Community

33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle


Recommended Posts

Hi guy. My front wheel knuckle broke on me just before I hit the track. It’s where the tie rod bolts onto the knuckle. I do have bump steer rose joint tie rod ends but I didn’t hit anything and I do not climb ripple strips on the track, it snapped off when I was doing a three point turn in the carpark. 
Has anyone had the same experience?  This is my second one in two years but in the other side. The car has extremely low kms and it’s only tracked 3-4 times a year. 
Any thought??

 

IMG_9982.jpeg

IMG_9984.jpeg

IMG_9985.jpeg

IMG_5971.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fracture pattern shows the force was a moment applied in the vertical plane (ie, the outer end of the steering up was being pushed up or down). I guess up from a cursory inspection.

This would suggest one of a couple of things.

  1. Bad day at the foundry. I consider this unlikely, because I would consider it unlikely that both the left and right uprights on your car were made on a single or very rare bad day. Far more likely to come from different days, and therefore there should be many more reports of these failures.
  2. The people designing these bump correction tie rods are not considering the change in direction that forces are applied to the steering arms. Again it would seem unlikely as there should probably be more reports, and the steering arms are approximately square in cross section.
  3. You have been hitting things with the bottom end of them.

Or a combo of all three? Plus other possibilities/factors?

  • Like 1
  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never seen this happen twice i would guess parts taken beyond manufactures specks if it were me i would have the next knuckle joint shot peened to try and make it stronger just like you would have your con rods shot peened 

good luck with it

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...