Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone have an r32 that stalls after getting up it?


Recommended Posts

Guest pondy

I saw some guys that had this problem a while ago, and were talking about changing the earth on the fuel pump. I had the same problem, and i fixed it on the weekend. Took me about half an hour, and made the car more responsive, stop it stalling after getting up it (say when i pulled up at the lights and put my foot on the clutch after a decent race). I just generally runs better too... let me know if anyone out there has this prob, and i'll tell you how to fix it.

Guest Danny32

I've got that problem, when drive a bit hard then clutch it the car just dies, sometimes the revs just go down to 200rpm then goes back up, feels like its gonna stall but doesn't.

Bloody pain in the ass, you dont know when your car is going to stall.

Would love to know how to fix this problem

i have got the same problem with my R33. I posted the thread stalling and uneven reving. I have spoken to a few ppl and they say it is the fuel pump, if so i was thinking about upgrading it with an R33 GTR pump or something similar. Would anyone be able to tell me how much a GTR pump will cost 2nd? And also if it will fit.

Guest pondy

Ok, what you need to get hold of is, a can of good carby cleaner, and old tooth brush, a can of wd40. You prolly wont think this will work, cos its so damn easy. You need to disconnect the piping that comes from the intercooler, to the intake manifold. (I'm not a mechanic, so bare with me, dont know what the parts are called). You'll see what i mean in the picture that i attach. You need to get access to the throttle body (the bit circled in the picture). Once the pipe is detached, you'll see a butterfly machanism in there, open the throttle. Mine was so dirty, there was a black ring of filth in there, it was so bad, that the butterfly would not close properly, which i think was the cause of the problem. Spray heaps of carby cleaner in there, and scrub away witht the tooth brush. That throttle body must be sparkling clean. Also, spray some wd40 onto the spring mechanism that the accel cable is attached to. This will lube it up, and it will operate smoothly. Open and close it over and over, to make sure it is working properly. THIS IS WORTH CHECKING OUT. My car is running so much better now, its more responsive, and hasn't come close to stalling. The car will run like a pig, when you first start it, run it for about 5mins to clear out the carby cleaner.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...