Jump to content
SAU Community

Mod question


Recommended Posts

Guest R33 GTR V-SPEC

Hi guys,

I recently got an R33 GTR Vspec and im planning to modify it with the following:

1. 3.5" turbo back exhaust

2. Pod filters with carbon fibre heat shield

3. Apexi power fc

4. Apexi boost con @ 15psi

5. Larger intercooler.

With these mods does anyone have an idea of what power id be making @ the engine and approx what 1/4 mile time it would run?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12886-mod-question/
Share on other sites

Hi R33 GTR V-SPEC, The other guys have covered the power and 1/4 time pretty well. My suggestion would be don't change the intercooler, the standard R33 GTR intercooler is good up to 300 rwkw. With your plans you won't be anywhere near that. So keep the response up and stick with the standard intercooler.

The only weakness at your target performance level will be the clutch. Heavy, big power and 4wd puts a lot of load on the clutch. Standard clutch won't last very many launches. We use OS Giken twin plates for your sort of power level.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12886-mod-question/#findComment-255370
Share on other sites

Similar to what I'm going for, with that setup you should be pumping out around 240-250 rwkws, 330kw+ @ flywheel. I agree with sydneykid, don't change cooler, better spend that money on a twin plate clutch, standard one won't last with that sort of power and hard launches.

I'm going for nismo twin plate, from what I've heard they're not harsh on the left leg.

Also expect a mid to low 12 with that sort of power on the 1/4.

Hope that gives you a fair idea.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12886-mod-question/#findComment-255436
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...