Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale: 1987 Nissan R31 skyline sillhouette

Asking Price: $4700 firm

Manual or Automatic transmission: Manual

Engine Type: RB20DET 2.0 silver TOP ***

148kW at wheels last time on dyno, feels much better after mods so should make more now.

Modifications: Intercooler & custom piping, nolathane bushes and whitline sway bars, brand new 6 puck clutch, king springs

Mini-spool locked diff. 3inch from turbo back exhaust, flange infront of muffler to swap for side pipe when required electronic boost controller. Plumb back bov.

Registration: Yes

Crash History: No Accident History from what i know. Body does have dents and is a little rough from friendly bogans though, however at a glance it looks rather tidy.

Other Comment's about the vehicle: comes with spare rb20 turbo in good cond. Hyperfang multispoke 15 inch wheels. elevo deep dish s/wheel, comes with side pipe to bolt on if wanted. Needs a little bit of work, small things such as wiring up high beam lights, boost guage needs wiring in (has brand new 'smoke' guage) and power steering has an oil leak.(still drivable just need to top it up)

Those who have seen it know that it does the job

Location: Hobart Tasmania

Contact detail's: Aidan - 0439 866 019

email - [email protected]

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...st&id=49509

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...st&id=49510

I love this car so buyer will have to pass background checks etc before taking possession..... jk lol

Edited by da_snuff
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128945-fs-r31-skyline-rb20det/
Share on other sites

couple of more action shots and an engine bay pic.

Please note that this has only been in 1 drift event, which was last sunday and that is where all these photo's are from, believe it or not it does get driven rather conservatively the rest of the time (cant afford petrol if i thrash it lol)

post-23840-1154864235.jpg

post-23840-1154864665.jpg

post-23840-1154864750.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...