Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm running 15.5 PSI without a fuel pressure reg bleed kit.

Hence it runs a little rich up top.

With 15psi without the fuel pressure reg bleed kit the best power I had out of it was 156rwkw.

Since then I've done a few little things like increase boost by .5psi and set a scramble at 15.5psi in manual mode to bring the boost up a little harder with the EBC.

I've also slapped a 100mm CAI in to the standard air box.. Lots of cutting :P

Last set of plugs I had these BCPR6E I think.. The ones with the V groove.

With the 6 heat range I did notice a little rougher idle only ever so slightly. I'm not sure if its due to coppers instead of Plats or if its just the heat range being a little cooler.

What I need to know is can I get away running the above setup with the standard plugs but a smaller gap for example 0.9mm?

I don't want to risk blowing a little bit of porcelin off the spark plug due to detonation because not enough heat is being removed from the combustion chamber. I could quite confidently say good bye to the ceramic turbo.

The gap on the 6's can be taken down to 0.75mm.

I'd lean towards getting some 7's working tho'. The gap could be opened a little wider say 1.1mm to start and then depending on the top end response closed down to 0.9 or 0.8mm. If they work out well invest in some platinums of the same spec and take the gap out 0.05mm more.

The thing to check on is the 'regular driving' aspect of the colder plug. They will be fab up in the higher rpms but if the gap is a tad small then they will foul on low throttle stuff.

It's not a bad thing to have a test of some colder range plugs with the intention of using them on performance events only.

I'm about to go to 7's myself as with the exhaust cam on retarded timing the cylinder temps are up and the 0.75mm 6's are getting 'cooked' with the timing advance I am running . I'd rather try and keep as much of the advance as I can and a colder range plug helps a little.

I've been running these 6's for close to 30,000kays now...

I'm starting to only just notice a little bit of the typical bad plugs problem..

It will be used for a lot of light throttle and the od traffic light run.

Driving 5km's to uni and back not to mention driving around the campus from car park to car park..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...