Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title says, does anyone use this brand of oil, i have heard awesome things about it and im doing a change with the royal purple 10w40 tomorrow....

anyone else using it?

any thoughts on this brand?

Beef

Edited by Beef
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129567-royal-purple-oils-your-thoughts/
Share on other sites

Beef,

I have been using Royal Purple 10W40 for a while now - ever since my last blow up. After spinning bearings my mechanic did a little research to ensure we were using the best oil available. From his feedback, a lot of the high horsepower guys are using Royal Purple because of its friction coefficient and is an ash free synthetic. Fairly expensive (especially when you have an extended sump), but so far so good.

Theres no such thing as 'ash free'. You can see this from the UOAs. Ash freemeans there are no metallic type additives in the formulation which is clearly not true.

IMO Royal Purple's street oils are OK (no evidence to suggest they are better than Mobil1 in real world testing), but their racing oils such as RP21 are quite good.

Beef,

I have been using Royal Purple 10W40 for a while now - ever since my last blow up. After spinning bearings my mechanic did a little research to ensure we were using the best oil available. From his feedback, a lot of the high horsepower guys are using Royal Purple because of its friction coefficient and is an ash free synthetic. Fairly expensive (especially when you have an extended sump), but so far so good.

The flash point for RP 10w40 are only 204'c (HTHS 4.02), the RP 15w40 flash point do look better with 224'c but (HTHS 3.6) only. IMO both not really ideal for hot running turbo engine.

The RP 10w30 do look better with flash point at 235'c and HTHS of 3.3, i would say go for the 10w30 for faster turbo spool and better thermal stability.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 💪🏼 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 🥲 But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
×
×
  • Create New...