Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by JET-33

u can still import them

just have to have no/minimum mods...

And who pray tell , is complying them after the 8th May ?

You still have to have the evidence package for emissions testing etc and afaik they will not accept old evidence.

Most boats leave around the 28th of the month and get here about 2 weeks later ( in WA at least ).

So as far as I see , you have missed the boat so to speak.

Geoff at Prestige is not buying any 32's atm cos there is no one to comply them and there are virtually no plates left.

I got one of prolly the last 5 in the country and I have to ship mine to Sydney.

Cheers

Ken

Craig at J-Spec and Geoff at Prestige (link already posted)

www.j-spec.com.au

There should be some good bargains coming up in regards to imports, just that the compliance is the problem.

Also nark swears by Mark, is it CentreLine?? anyway got to Nark's site, he has a link.

Locally... i've seen a silver R32 GTR at Daniel Prince Motors on Nepean Hwy, but i reckon pretty much all Import yards are dodge to the max...

um... oh yeah, Red Ace Motors in Carnegie i think, on Poath Road. Akeenan got his car from there, really recommended them to me, 1 was so close to putting a deposit on a R33 GTST compliance plate there around Oct 2002, but parents pulled the plug like the day i went to pay... but if u want, speak to Hannah, she was really helpful. And they have their own work shop, it had 3 car bays so it might be RAWS complianced, not sure.

also UPI www.upimports.com.au - they got their own workshop as well and are all RAWS ready.

So yeah, heard good things about all these guys - Obviously Geoff and Craig at THE most well known at i'm sure (with a few exceptions to prove the rule) are prob the best to go thru.

But yeah, compliance for a R32 GTR might be a bit of a problem now. Anyway here's an email i got form Geoff today, as i'm sure most of u also got. Looking good for my R34 GT-T purchase! :P

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From Geoff Risbey at Prestige MotorSport.

Old Import Scheme Finished

Sadly, it's now too late to import vehicles under the old import scheme, so we will be working hard under the new import scheme from now on.

New Import Scheme

We are now taking orders for vehicles to be imported under the new import scheme. Compliance availability will quickly improve over the next 2 to 3 months, however for those models for which compliance is still pending, we are able to store the vehicle in Japan for our customers for free. Depending on the model, this should not be necessary for more than 4 to 10 weeks. Vehicles must be very close to stock standard under the new import scheme, at least until we see how the scheme progresses over a period of 4 to 8 months and whether there is any relaxation on modifications. At this stage, aftermarket wheels and exhausts must be replaced during compliance, but it appears these can be refitted by the owner following compliance. We will make further updates on compliance availability and other issues as the scheme progresses.

Bargains

Over the next couple of months there should be great opportunities to pick up vehicles at auction for significant reductions over normal prices as demand from Australian buyers for popular imports drops to virtually nothing. Prices at auction have already fallen for some models, and the exchange rate is also excellent. If you are in a position to buy and wait for a number of weeks before importing then you may be well placed to take advantage of this unusual situation. However, cars will not suddenly be free, so please don't think that. (o: Australia is not the only country that recognises the value of Japanese cars.

15 Year Old Vehicles

We continue to take orders for 15 year old vehicles (1988 and older), which are not affected at all by the import scheme changes. There are some fantastic options available. 15 year old cars with modifications are also fine to import without restriction. If you are wondering what you can import and the likely cost, please go to the link below and select Past Vehicles for a range of examples, or send us an e-mail with your questions.

here's a q for meggala and troy, what do u reckon u guys could get a stock standard R34 GT-T 1998 for?

what's ur fee meggala if u don't mind me asking - and no INASNT and Nark this isn't a chance to come up with some witty sexual remark :P

1.1-1.5 million yen???depends on the car....i will check USS next week and post the results for you.......My commission for one car is 90,000 yen inclusive of everything...the more you buy the cheaper i do it......The so called "Import specialist's" in aust get charged a fee that could be anywhere from 60,000-100,000..this gets paid by you anyway....as well as what you have to pay them ......i charge the one fee

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...