Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1995 ser 1.5 R33 gts-t

Auto

5 months rego

Safty certificate

Mods:

Front mount intercooler 600x300x76 with polished piping

Custom turbo intercooler intake pipe

Greddy BOV (plump back)

Split stainless dump pipe with 3" front pipe

3.5" cat back exhaust with stainless muffler

Running stock boost 6psi and then 9-10 after 4500rpm

Drift pod filter

Colour coded timing cover and coil cover

Body:

Freshly painted engine bay just to make it look noice

GTR front bar with air dams (new)

Vielside side skirts (new)

Vielside rear bar (new)

Stock ser 2 wing

18" ANZ assault chrome rims

Stereo:

Alpine mp3 head unit

Pioneer 6" fronts

Pioneer 6x9 rears

2x10" pioneer subs

Pioneer 2ch amp

Did have white boot install but was taken out now subs are in a sealed box

Interia:

Colour coded dash surrounds

Boost gauge mounted in pillar pod

Apexi turbo timer

Monza race seat red/black not in but will sell with car

Price is $13,500 nego and interested in swaps

contact me on 0438774173 or pm me

Location is Hervey Bay QLD

post-11029-1156115946.jpg

post-11029-1156115971.jpg

post-11029-1156115997.jpg

post-11029-1156116020.jpg

post-11029-1156116044.jpg

post-11029-1156116072.jpg

post-11029-1156116315.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131103-r33-gts-t-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...