Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi just wondering if anyone knows? Why does this stupid neo rb25 which i am begining to hate, boost spike to 12psi on full throttle,then it climbs to 15 psi then starts shaking the whole car (only night time late,and early mornings) i know the air is colder and more dense. And during the arvo it holds 8psi constant under full throttle. Everything is stock! hoses,boost valve everything...... :O

something is leaking or not correct for it to spike that much

the stock actuator wont allow it to hold that much pressure

i would suggest checking all the hoses and tubes

what exhaust?

That would be why.. its flowing more in the dense times...

I would suggest a upgraded actuator and then a decent boost controller to fix the issue.. try one of those cheap ones they are going on about here.. the turbo tech. you would be suprised.

3 inch exhaust, split dump pipe, and a ultra ultra high flow cat :O
Edited by Guilt-Toy

well thats why its spking

youve taken away the exhaust restriction so now its easier for the engine to flow exhaust, which in turn drives the turbine faster, which makes more boost and makes it spike. i would suggest a good electronic boost controller. one that can only close based on whatever preset pressure is.

Thanx fellas! I have been tearing my hair out! I would much rather my old series one rb25! use to run 12 pound all day every day not a drama! Neo rb25 very overated! for example 9-10 psi boost cut, turbo is a crappy laggy nylon one!

well thats why its spking

youve taken away the exhaust restriction so now its easier for the engine to flow exhaust, which in turn drives the turbine faster, which makes more boost and makes it spike. i would suggest a good electronic boost controller. one that can only close based on whatever preset pressure is.

What are some EBCs you recommend (one with an accurate boost in psi reading would be good)

Blitz SBD-ID3?

Profec B?

AVCR?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...