Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

just venting some anger

today i was driving home from work, theres a point where you have to merge at the top of a hill, i indicated for about 10 seconds hoping that some kind person would let me in. The person in front of me (in the other lane) sped up a bit too let me in, but then the FAT F*CK behind her sped up, therefor not letting me in, he looked straight at me and smiled. OMG! That was it, he then had the nerve to cut me off about 5 minutes later. I drove up next to him with my window down signalling to him to wind down his window down for a "friendly" discussion. But the prick wouldnt even look at me. All I am trying to say here is, Dont be a top bloke by not letting ppl who have signalled in PLENTY of time in.

Cheers

Dave

P.S: I am not normally like this but enough is enough I reckon. Its a little thing called commen courtesy but evidentely no one knows what that is anymore!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13150-farken-road-rage/
Share on other sites

I wouldn't take that kind of attitude... nowadays, if anyone pisses me off i tail gate or swerve and cut them off the road. I guess one day I will meet the wrong person and have my face punched in.. but i'm full of rage!

Look im all for that in some circumstances but cause im big, ppl tend to think that im always looking for fights( sometimes i am) but, look i dunno most of the time i will tailgate someone that has pissed me off but i just couldnt believe that farker. OMG! Bashings for him, TO THE HEAD. BWUHAHAHAHAHAHA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13150-farken-road-rage/#findComment-249653
Share on other sites

Well by law, if someone in another lane is indicating, and is in front of you, you have to let them in.....

I always indicate with heaps of notice, and people usually let me in. I dont like to wait for a gap, then indicate.....

But when I see some mofo speeding up to not lert me in, I swerve into that lane hard (only about 1/8 th into the lane), the other person usually brakes hard, then I slowly take the lane..... :P

This technique is effective about 80% of the time it is used... maybe more...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13150-farken-road-rage/#findComment-250550
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...