Jump to content
SAU Community

Looking For A Special R34gtt Auto Owner/s

satanic
 Share

Recommended Posts

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone;

I'm in the middle of organizing something special with a few suppliers/individuals and would like to find a subject car. The car needs to be a R34GTT in Automatic transmission format and will need to have specific modifications done to it (anything extra is disregarded but you MUST have the specific modifications we are looking for).

Basically; this is a ZERO risk oppurtunity for any R34GTT Auto owner.

All I need is 5 minutes of your time to post up your car's details (Modifications; Location; Contact Details)

NB: As this little project can be given to anyone; we won't list up the modifications required; we'll just read through what's posted up and assess it - that way no one can cheat and become "more preferable". Also; a NSW location is preferred but we're open to anywhere really.

Thanks

Stan

NB: I won't be putting my car up as I know I have already failed to meet the requirements :P

Zappn Collaborator

Zappn

Posted
Posted (edited)

BATML split front dump, 3 inch cat back.

K&N panel filter

$22 boost controller running ~ 9psi

Located in Perth, WA.

edit:

Thought I should add that I've been thinking about getting a safc neo in next month or two :angry:

Edited by Zappn
NJR 34GTT Proficient

NJR 34GTT

Posted
Posted

Not really impressed with the unichip at all.

No-one in Canberra seems to be able to tune them appropriately, which could be half my problem.

Have had a few re-tunes done and the power curve is still spikey and it's running very rich. I'm quite sick of cleaning the black soot off my rear bar. AFR is fine under normal acceleration but under WOT the AFR is ridiculous.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

Actually while we're at it, the new version of the bikirom software has made it a piece of piss to tune. If you've got a laptop it's almost as stupidly easy as the e-manage.

It's nice to download the ROM and see the big glaring area where the timing drops out under pressures over 12psi...simple to retune in seconds at home!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • GTSBoy
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • GTSBoy
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • GTSBoy
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...