Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Regretful sale-moving

Nissan r32 gts-t type M Manual gun metal grey 92-93 spec (late 92 model)

This is an A1 example of an r32 not a ratty accident repaired car.

Only aussie owner.Imported 3 years ago personally.

Positives:

Engine idle's like a lexus,never thrashed,NEVER driven hard.Yes i drive like an old man... :ermm:post-21850-1157596097.jpgpost-21850-1157596553.jpg

My mates S15 engine sounds like a truck compared to mine!

Mods done in japan:

HKS pod filter

Cat back exhaust and top of the line muffler.(forgot the weird japanese brand)

Genuine Full GTR bodykit including rear wing-not a crappy imitation bar

GTS rear pods

Dark window tints

Raybrig fog lights with remote control!

Mods done here:

Full Tein hr coilovers

Dump pipe

High flow cat

Front sway bar

Front adjustable castor arms

5 spoke rare 17'' rims: a-tech monoblocks with falken alpha rs tyres made in japan

Brand new 2 month old heavy duty clutch exeedy

Brand new slave cylinder (clutch)

Brand new master cylinder (clutch)

New timing belt done at 108000kms

New spark plugs

New water pump at same time.

New speedo cable

New optima dry cell battery 3 months ago

Pro sound system install

Machined front discs

Bendix pro pads front,and rear

All electronics and lights etc work flawlessly

Nismo gear shifter

Projector front headlights-easily converted to xenon

Japanese seat belt extension arm-ultra rare!

Had done 90000kms when arrived.Now with 128000 Genuine kms

Always use 98 shell optimax

Allways used NISSAN 7.5W 30W oil and oil filter

Just serviced.

New airconditioner r34a gas and pipes/condenser

Full imobiliser with keyless entry tracker

Recipts to back up.

Negitives:

Small stone chips on front bar ( barley noticeable)

One of the best examples of a 32 gtst (if i do say so myself)

Asking 15,000 O.N.O

Genuine offers and intersest welcome,NO TEST PILOTS or tyre kickers,i dont have the time or insurance cover for this.Just give me a call to arrange a time.Details in post below.

post-21850-1158809973.jpg

post-21850-1158809996.jpg

post-21850-1158810014.jpg

Edited by cookie--monster
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133323-sold/
Share on other sites

sure has...i will be renewing it in late december...if i still have it by then-i just put it on car sales and have had a very intrested buyer.i put the price down too.

will take off rims and stereo to lower it further still if needed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133323-sold/#findComment-2583252
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...