Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Adam, think I found out what the AC/WG switch is - it appears to relate to choosing either internal actuator or external wastegate.

You running an integrated wastegate arent you, so I guess you would use the AC setting - I can only assume it changes the way the gain affects the solenoid output (difference in sensitivity of a external wastegate vs a integrated solenoid).

copied from a subaru sales website:

The Street Spec Boost Controler or SSBC is an entry level, cost effective boost controller that is very user friendly. There are two available boost settings for high and low boost. This boost controller uses as single solenoid and is capable of handling up to 18psi (1.2bar). The SSBC is 1/4 din size and is compatible with internal actuators and external wastegates.

Call blitz in NSW, they are pretty helpful and may have a PDF of the manual in english (they sent a mate one for his SB-ID)

Ta

Conrad

Hi Adam, I think in the case of units like the HKS EVC its a fuzzy logic unit so yeah it learns your boost characteristics with the end goal of reducing spikes, the SSBC isnt a fuzzy logic one.

The gain adjustment is your main way of setting it up to assure its stable - set the gain too high and it will overshoot, too low and it will never make the boost target in the time you want. I guess its just a matter of striking the balance, and doing some test driving with your boost gauge to get it set up right.

On my previous car, the unichip boost controller was very similiar (no fuzzy logic, just wastegate actuation control in relation to MAP) and it was rock solid and got on boost quick and didnt spike, its just a matter of getting the gain level right I think.

Slayer: I have a Unichip boost module on my car. I ditched it. The Unichip couldn't even hold boost up top. It would drop down and the tuners excuse was it was for 'safety'.

I had it retuned at a later date (different tuner) and this time to get around the 'safety' feature I had a cheap bleed valve setup and it held 1.4bar all the way thru.

Now I've ditched the bleed valve and I'm using the Blitz DSBC. Yet to tune it again so I'm running a measly 1 bar (most of the time)

the DSBC doesnt use the same solenoid though, which is the major part im stuck on...

any ideas? its got 2 hoses coming into the solenoid, and 1 coming out the other side

so you dont have to teach it your boost curve, and the boost levels on HI and LO are preset. so once plugged in theres nothing to configure apart from GAIN. correct?

Adam: The DSBC has two places to put the hoses into it. One to the wastegate (internal/external, doesn't matter, as long as it goes to the wastegate) and one to the map/plenum (boost readout if you will). Labelled out and in respectively.

From above it seems like you're saying there are 3 in the SSBC?

The unit to control boost is similar in both the DSBC and SSBC. Which part do you need help with?

the solenoid itself has 3 plugs

im guessing one is the wastegate, one to the plenum, and one to the inlet pipe

seeing as i dont have a hole in the inlet pipe anymore... ill run 2 hoses to the plenum and 1 to the wastegate

however my wastegate looks like this... it has 2 outlets

The solenoid has 3 plugs. I can't help you there. Are there any markings such as in and out to give you a clue? The DSBC only has two. See http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/blitz_dsbc/ (figure 7)

But your guessing in running 2 hoses to the plenum and 1 to the wastegate makes sense. In the meanwhile I'll ask around, it sounds similar to the AVC-R soleniod (ie 3 pipes).

What kinda wastegate is it? I've always thought you only needed one pressure line to the WG. I'm down on external wastegate experience, perhaps someone can help Adam here.

No labelling on the unit what so ever?

I really can't help and I'd rather not make any educated guesses. Dumb thing to say, but I take it the instructions are useless. I bought my DSBC second hand, lucky for me they have instructions via a Goggle search.

I'm sure someone here has installed a unit like this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...