Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i want to connect a PC, tuch screen and maybe a sound system up but i dont know how i would go about getting a power connection

i am a computer freek who loves speed and style of a skyline (thanks need for speed :laugh:) :sorcerer: but i dont know much about cars :S

even tho i'm getting a skyline for my first car lol (in research atm lol)

i need some kinda connector that'll handel a 450w power supply

because a basic PC cant haddle what i want( i want a powerful 1 as in GPU's and WAN)

if you point me in the right place to find some thing that would be grate :)

thankz >_<:laugh:

The popular option is a 300-400 watt special PSU that runs a direct 12v feed into a PC setup.

If you search google for "carputer", you'll find US sites dedicated to these kinds of installs.

Anyway, the PSU has a built-in power-off delay that automatically shuts your windows pc down when the ignition is turned off. I think that's more important than getting a really beefy PSU and trying to run crazy parts.

Touchscreens are USB, so you just need to get one of those and some extension cables.

PSU we talked about.

Sound... you can do 3.5mm stereo minijack (soundcard) to RCA cables into some input of your head unit, or the same into an amp which then runs your speakers. Not all HU's have RCA inputs, usually only outputs.

If you REALLY want to run a full-sized PC with ATI/nvidia GPU's and multiple SATA/IDE 3.5" disks, DVDROM, and stuff like that, then you'll just need to buy a really powerful inverter from JayCar. I'm pretty sure they do up to 500-600watt. That takes 12v to 240v (PSU) and then your PSU converts it back to 12v.. Seems like a waste though.

A small-form factor case and MB with built in video, sound, WLAN, USB etc with a notebook HDD and DVDROM can run off a 200watt and still play movies and render graphics etc... Only reason I could see you needing a powerful GPU is if you want to actually play PC games in your car... but with a touchscreen monitor that would be pretty hard anyway.

kewl thankz mate

now all i realy need is to find out where to put the dam thing :S

well i need some air flow... so the boot isn't the best place :S

maybe under the one of the seats :angry:

i may need a shuttle PC or a bit from a server :laugh:

thankz again :PBJ:

wait a minit i just got a cheap ass way to put a computer in the car ;)

i'll just buy a laptop with a broken screen and connect a keyborad and a tuch screen lcd :O

it'll probley work ;)

theres nothing wrong with a laptop with a broken screen (aprt from the screen)

i'll just have to find some plans on how to do it ....

or get some one else to put it in lol

well the thing is that come carputers cost $600(ebay) to $4000+ :)

but if u spent $1000 on a laptop that is broken but is a high powerd one then u'll save some money :)

a laptop is better idea because it use's less room and has usb, external screen port, and the best thing is it's cheap :laugh:

well looks like i'll be having fun :)

hmmm... i bet start looking for plans...

:D

theres nothing wrong with a laptop with a broken screen (aprt from the screen)

i'll just have to find some plans on how to do it ....

or get some one else to put it in lol

well the thing is that come carputers cost $600(ebay) to $4000+ :)

but if u spent $1000 on a laptop that is broken but is a high powerd one then u'll save some money :)

a laptop is better idea because it use's less room and has usb, external screen port, and the best thing is it's cheap :laugh:

well looks like i'll be having fun :)

hmmm... i bet start looking for plans...

:D

You'll probably have to hard wire a shutdown controller to the on/off switch of the laptop, and rig it to run off an inverter. Probably the least efficient way of doing it, but it's cheap if you've got a broken laptop around the place.

Right now i'm just saving up for a epia motherboard setup, at least that way i don't drain the heck out of my battery and can install it wherever I like.

Yes, the laptop is the other way. I'm still holding onto my old one to do just this... if I ever get around to it.

As said above, the problem with starting it up and shutting it down is a pain. I'm pretty sure you could wire some cables to the contacts on the motherboard, and then run them to the front of the car to the button, but it's going to be a hassle to shut it down everytime you leave the car.

Anyway, you've gone from super-expensive graphics card full PC's to using a broken laptop. Everything has already been done before, you just need to work out which way you want to do it. =-]

i realy dont want to put a full desktop pc in the car (i wouldn't mind the power of the Gfx car ;))

but its a car after all and space is an issuse so.... yeah

a laptop is the best way to go.. may cost ya as little as $100 or $1000.. just depends on whos selling it and what they know about computers...

man who knows nothing... $1000 "oh it just had a smale bump and its ok"

man who knows alot... $100 "its just plane stuffed"

lol

with the shut down issue... it's easy if you put a power connector in where u switch it off ur self or...

some thing (i dont know what it was) in the thingy witch make the other thingy make something thats a thingy turn off lol :huh:

i'll see waht i can find around

but it will have to wait till i get a skyline lol (soon but with the new laws in vic :S beats me lol)

atm i'm working on a CD play and turning it in to a pc (if u want a look click here :))

i'll get that pc working then the car :sick:

thanks pllz u gave me ideas :yes:

well i want to be a pc to put in my modded pc case at min cost to me

like say.... $20 lol

any way.... this site is to do with skylines and cars stuff lol and not pc's

altho i'm a nerd when it comes to pc hardware...lol

:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...