Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey do anyof you guys know much about the ventilated disc brakes?

I see in the General section there is a ventilated disc brake group buy.

Will this be actually better for stopping or does it just mean that on hot days because it is ventilated it can stop as well as it foes at the moment but all the time.

I am just worried that in winter i might crash and ABS might not save my ass like it did once already last year... i want better stopping through winter... would it be a good idea for me to purchase these ventilated disc brakes?

Also on the pic that they have it shows a new brake clamp aswell... does that normally come in a package with the ventilated discs?

Link Below:

http://www.dba.com.au/5000series/5030.asp

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13727-ventilated-disc-brakes/
Share on other sites

Are you referring to cross drilled rotors??? Or the way they distribute the heat between the inside of the rotor???

Edit: Ok to cover my knowledge of brakes ( I don't know what will help you that you don't already know though... )

Cross Drilled Brakes are very good for braking in single stop scenarios. They pull you up the quickest but you cant repeatably heavy brake on them or they have a tendancy to crack the rotor.

Slotted: These I believe are the best choice for modded street cars ... They give good stooping power and can take repeated heavy braking much much better than cross drills.

As for the centre of the rotor the new Kangaroo Paw technology apparantly distributes the heat build up much more effeciantly than the previous design and if availabe ( Not all rotors have been changed over yet ) are the better option.

Unless you buy some form of package deal I thought you just purchased the rotors seperately to any calipers and such???

Feel free to now correct and ridicule me :)

Dan,

Ventialated disk brakes allow primarily for the removal of heat, via transfer from the metal to the air. This is different to slotted or cross-drilled brakes. If your after a decent brake upgrade then either get some R33 GTR disks, or purchase something from DBA.

See'ya:burnout:

Yeah if you are thinking new rotors I would look at DBA for sure... Ask DBASteve which is best for your car....

I have spoken to him recently and the DBA 963 seemed to be the best option. Theses are slotted rotors with the Kangaroo Paw technology.... The only problem is they are only just completing the machining of the disks and such so they are difficult to get.

They will be my future disks anyways... :)

Would these be a good buy though? Do you think this would increase my stopping power?

I think about $187 for each one, i thought that might be a good deal but don't want them if they won't better my stopping, there won't be too much heat being generated as i don't really do much track work...

Hmmm I guess it depends on your driving style.... I know I could use the better rotors as even on the SAU cruises I must build up huge amounts of heat from my "Spirited driving"

Do you work your car hard often or is it more of a cruizen mobile??? :)

Originally posted by MrGTST

Hmmm I guess it depends on your driving style.... I know I could use the better rotors as even on the SAU cruises I must build up huge amounts of heat from my "Spirited driving"

Do you work your car hard often or is it more of a cruizen mobile??? :)

Well it's more of a cruisen mobile but last winter whilst cruisen quite a few times when traffic were ever so polite so stop spartically in front of me i though.... hmmm maybe my stopping could be upgraded for next winter... now with more than 100 Killowatts i do feel that i should look at this!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...