Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'v got a stock Turbo R33 2door series 2 .. still using my sexy stock 16" skyline rims...

if i had no intention to drift but to still take round-abouts and the odd quick decision around a bend would i be safe with just using bilstein coil-overs?

or do i gotta go spend more money on sway bars and camber arms etc etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137353-no-intention-to-drift/
Share on other sites

huh?

accelerate at a slower pace and keep the rear in tact if u dun wanan drift

if u do snap the steering back and stomp it !!

if u want better handling/response/less body roll get new suspension/sway bars etc

if you just want something that will handle half alright, and you just need it to do what you want occasionally, the bilstien setup should be good. You can probably get a cheaper setup using some KYB's if you just have a little play now and then. Do a search in this forum for KYB for the exact setup someone here is using, cost them under 1k. if youre a bit more serious doing full spirited runs might want to go bushes/swaybar/strut brace. coilovers can be cheap but might be bit harsh, be worth having a ride in a car fitted with 'X' coilover before buying.

agree with ronin on the grammar. R32 Driver.........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...