Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am planning to change the gear oil in my R33 GTS-T. I have already purchased the 1 gallon lightweight redline oil.

I have an empty 1 litre VMX80 bottle that has a little hose attach to the cap. Can I use this bottle to fill up my gear box without a pump? (some people mentioned to use a pump to fill it up)

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13827-change-the-gear-oil-without-a-pump/
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Not sure to tell you the truth. I haven't ever tried it this way.

I managed to get a 1/2 inch torque rench to the filler and drain plug. Gave me heaps of leaverage to get the nuts loose. I still almost spat my guts out my bum cause the nuts were so damn tight though !!!

I 'think' you'd have to take the gearstick surround off, then the 4 bolts around the gearstick. Then that might open up the hole which may let you get a hose down there and put it in the filler hole. Then just use a funnel thingy to fill it up.

Just don't spill the oil inside the car !!

J

I think someone was saying that you can fill it up via the speedo cable plug if you can't get the filler nut out.

Just undo the speedo cable and pull it out, then do it that way.

Not sure if you'd be able to fill it up from inside the car if you use the speedo cable way though...

J

guys, the best way to fill it up is : after u drain it from the bottom plug put that plug back then take the filler -level plug out on side of the b/box and use a pump to fill it up ( i use compressed air to pump it up there ). if u want to get to it from the top this is how the gear stick comes out .

take the trim mould off , gearknob off , boot off , ( u need new cable tie to put back )then there is a c-clip that u have to take off ( u need a long nose to sqeeze it )once u take that off the gear stick just comes out .

warning here though u won't know when its full unless the filler -level pug is out but even then if u fill from there i'm not sure that it will go in to the box on gtrs 4wd 's it won't, it will end up in the trasfer case .

don't bother doing it this way besides u should be able to take the plug out so u can check the level everytime u do a service so u must be able to take the plug out .

u need a long wrentch ( like 300 mm ) with a 1/2 inch drive ( or maybe 3/8 cant remember ) its shouldn't be that tight i never have any trouble undoing it .

Read the link

I did this on two cars on friday, one through a stupid little hole and one through the speedo sender.

USE the speedo sender hole instead of the normal filler hole if u cant get it undone like me :) its a hell of a lot easier, and you get the correct level too.

hmm not the same gearbox, but last week i changed clutch and gbox oil in my other car, damn filler plug was rounded off and so damn tight, the only way i got it off was to take the whole box off and weld a long bar to it to break the seal. total pain in the arse!

as for filling it without a pump, get a length of hose (about 3 meters) that is big enough to fit in the filler plug hole but so its loose. and get a funnel. stick these two together by what ever means neccesary.. silver tape works good to seal it.

put one end in the filler hole and the funnel end above the car (may have to attach it to something unless you feel like holding it there) then through gravity the oil will flow down into the box slowly. if you know how much to put in fine just put that in, but if not just keep topping it up untill it runs out the filler hole and then let it drain till it stops then replace plug

how do u know when u have just the right amount if u dont undo the level -filler plug ??

how do u check the level if u dont undo the plug when u do normal minor service ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...