Jump to content
SAU Community

Change the gear oil without a pump?

ken

By ken,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

ken Enthusiast

ken

Posted
Posted

I am planning to change the gear oil in my R33 GTS-T. I have already purchased the 1 gallon lightweight redline oil.

I have an empty 1 litre VMX80 bottle that has a little hose attach to the cap. Can I use this bottle to fill up my gear box without a pump? (some people mentioned to use a pump to fill it up)

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13827-change-the-gear-oil-without-a-pump/
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...
Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

Not sure to tell you the truth. I haven't ever tried it this way.

I managed to get a 1/2 inch torque rench to the filler and drain plug. Gave me heaps of leaverage to get the nuts loose. I still almost spat my guts out my bum cause the nuts were so damn tight though !!!

I 'think' you'd have to take the gearstick surround off, then the 4 bolts around the gearstick. Then that might open up the hole which may let you get a hose down there and put it in the filler hole. Then just use a funnel thingy to fill it up.

Just don't spill the oil inside the car !!

J

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

I think someone was saying that you can fill it up via the speedo cable plug if you can't get the filler nut out.

Just undo the speedo cable and pull it out, then do it that way.

Not sure if you'd be able to fill it up from inside the car if you use the speedo cable way though...

J

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

guys, the best way to fill it up is : after u drain it from the bottom plug put that plug back then take the filler -level plug out on side of the b/box and use a pump to fill it up ( i use compressed air to pump it up there ). if u want to get to it from the top this is how the gear stick comes out .

take the trim mould off , gearknob off , boot off , ( u need new cable tie to put back )then there is a c-clip that u have to take off ( u need a long nose to sqeeze it )once u take that off the gear stick just comes out .

warning here though u won't know when its full unless the filler -level pug is out but even then if u fill from there i'm not sure that it will go in to the box on gtrs 4wd 's it won't, it will end up in the trasfer case .

don't bother doing it this way besides u should be able to take the plug out so u can check the level everytime u do a service so u must be able to take the plug out .

u need a long wrentch ( like 300 mm ) with a 1/2 inch drive ( or maybe 3/8 cant remember ) its shouldn't be that tight i never have any trouble undoing it .

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

Read the link

I did this on two cars on friday, one through a stupid little hole and one through the speedo sender.

USE the speedo sender hole instead of the normal filler hole if u cant get it undone like me :) its a hell of a lot easier, and you get the correct level too.

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted

hmm not the same gearbox, but last week i changed clutch and gbox oil in my other car, damn filler plug was rounded off and so damn tight, the only way i got it off was to take the whole box off and weld a long bar to it to break the seal. total pain in the arse!

as for filling it without a pump, get a length of hose (about 3 meters) that is big enough to fit in the filler plug hole but so its loose. and get a funnel. stick these two together by what ever means neccesary.. silver tape works good to seal it.

put one end in the filler hole and the funnel end above the car (may have to attach it to something unless you feel like holding it there) then through gravity the oil will flow down into the box slowly. if you know how much to put in fine just put that in, but if not just keep topping it up untill it runs out the filler hole and then let it drain till it stops then replace plug

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

how do u know when u have just the right amount if u dont undo the level -filler plug ??

how do u check the level if u dont undo the plug when u do normal minor service ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...