Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Pump Install

Fry_33

By Fry_33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

I have got a Nismo direct replacement intank fuel pump for my R33 GTST and am thinking about chucking it in. Before I open her up though, does the tank need to be really empty or is just above the quarther mark ok?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138733-fuel-pump-install/
Share on other sites
dead32 Mentor

dead32

Posted
Posted

for the instal it can be bone dry or totaly full it doesnt matter, however when u first go to turn ignition on to start, i would advise it has a safe level of fuel for it to pick up for first time running, fuel is a lube for the pump...

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

And Doh! I did mine full...............I was cursing myself the whole time for not remembering how full I had it.

If you haven't done the pump before, 1/4 full is good, it lets you see whats going on a bit better.

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Yes it sux having your arm in it.

I had a weird problem one night, had a full tank of fuel and had to replace and check the wiring on the pump about 5 times in an hour. It was about 30 degrees that night too and humid as hell. I had sweat and petrol drying on me for so long and it sucked.

So yeah, fairly empty is good. :P:ninja:

Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for your input everyone, ended up doing it with just under a quarter of a tank (went for a short drive to get the fuel down a little more) and it was fine. Removing the lid is a bit of a bitch and getting the pump to seat properly too but seems to be working fine. So hopefully now its ready and safe to accept a few more performance mods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...