Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

I got a r33 gts-t 1994 and when i put the foot down in pretty much any gear about 4000rpm my car starts popping when the revs are going up on full boost. The boost stays the same bit it feels like it surges then back on surges then back on right up to redline...

Would this be a fuel pump or maybe even coils

Im running a stock bov, fmic, cai, and a standard ecu.

Ive have it into a mechanic and they still cant seem to find anything worng with it. (maybe they not as heavey footed as me.

Mind u on 5psi it wont pop only on 10psi it will.

If any of you can lend a falla a hand i thank u in advance

Cheers Matt

BTW i just had a dyno run today came back with 150.7 (stink i know) but around 125km in 4th the line dips and again at 134km it dips again then again at 148km/ph and the guy sasid he fixed it.

IM CONFUSED!!

0.8mm plug gap.. if that no fix rip the center coil cover off, take the car for a spin to get it hot then come home and carefully look for little flashes of light around your coils.

If they flash your coils are nackered and u need new ones. :P

BTW i just had a dyno run today came back with 150.7 (stink i know) but around 125km in 4th the line dips and again at 134km it dips again then again at 148km/ph and the guy sasid he fixed it.

IM CONFUSED!!

Check your fuel pressure regulator has its vacuum source on. If the dyno shop gave you a printout of boost and power they would've taken it off.

ive seen this happen as well.. .7 can also help so try that before looking elsewhere.. in my case i went to .6 :)

no gap the plugs to .7 m i gap my mate to .8 slight improvment but when gaped at .7 the whole mis fire went away

Well i just looked at all the coils and found a little hairline crack, so i had a read of the following topic:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...56&hl=coils

and wala did what it said. took the coils out looked at them with a magnifying glass and found a small crack, used pvc tape and sweet i have boost again right to redline. Maybe only a temp fix but saved me $$$ on coils i didnt really need quite yet.

Cheers for ya help

Matt :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...