Jump to content
SAU Community

Electrical Fault In The Er34?

8110

By 8110,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

8110 Mentor

8110

Posted
Posted

I had a weird experience on my ER34 yesterday night.

While waiting at the lights, the electronics went dead. Headlights (taillight too I suppose), meter lights and the audio unit. It went dead for a second or two but the engine is still running.

Afterwhich, everything gained back power and as per normal. My check engine and fasten seatbelt warning lights remain lighted for about 5 secs before turning off.

This is really weird and worrisome. Am afraid that suddenly while driving everything went dead on me.

The above happened twice yesterday nite. :yes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141336-electrical-fault-in-the-er34/
Share on other sites
colgf Enthusiast

colgf

Posted
Posted
I had a weird experience on my ER34 yesterday night.

While waiting at the lights, the electronics went dead. Headlights (taillight too I suppose), meter lights and the audio unit. It went dead for a second or two but the engine is still running.

Afterwhich, everything gained back power and as per normal. My check engine and fasten seatbelt warning lights remain lighted for about 5 secs before turning off.

This is really weird and worrisome. Am afraid that suddenly while driving everything went dead on me.

The above happened twice yesterday nite. :happy:

I can only suggest your battery terminals , remove both & give a good clean with wire brush & the battery posts. Ck your -ve earth lead from the battery to body mount point is secure , another cause could be your voltage regulator which is inside the back of the alternator, can be replaced separately though. Have you washed down your engine bay lately- could be water in the main wiring loom/box area???? Good Luck....

8110 Mentor

8110

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just some update. Today more weird stuff happened.

1) On the way to work this morning. The speakers went dead. My headunit is still playing but there are no power to the amp and thus no sound from the speakers. Have yet to determined whether the amp is fried or the fuse is blown.

2) During noon time, similar thing as the above happened BUT this time the engine went dead. The first time, I'm idling at the lights and everything shut itself down. Give the car a crank and it restarted. Later it went dead again and I can't crank. Pop the hood and fiddle with the - terminal and are able to restart it.

Am dead worried that the engine will go dead while I'm driving on the road.

Anyway, just took a look at the terminal. With the engine on, I removed the - terminal. Engine still runs. Does that mean my alternator is a-ok and are charging as per normal?

I cleaned the - terminal and tighten back both the + and - termimal and hope all is well.

colgf, nope I did not wash the engine bay.

Sumo Mentor

Sumo

Posted
Posted

Dont remove you battery terminals whilst your car is running - you have a posibility that your voltage may spike to 17-18 volts and blow something up.

An Alternator will not cause the problem you are describing. Its more likely to be a power supply issue. Check your main power going into your fuse distrobution block.

There is a possiblity that one cell in your battery may be playing up with a fracture in it. Your problem is not common, and is hard to diagnose over the net.

Cheers

Sumo

nuffsaid Veteran

nuffsaid

Posted
Posted

It happened once in my car, driving along, come to a set of lights, the car was about to stall, and then it did. Started it up fine and drove again.

I went home and just as I got in the driveway it did it again, and then it was like the battery went dead.

Upon closer inspection looked like the stereo system had a short somewhere or was using a fault amplifier fuse or something (those big ones). Put in a new one and havent had a problem since. I also noticed that the power supply to the alarm wasnt connected tightly so maybe when the alarm detected power issues it just immobilised the car?

8110 Mentor

8110

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok the speakers went dead issue is partly solved. Think my amp has some problems and it was sent for repair already.

BUT

on the car going dead issue. It's still around. Some times, the electricals flicker a bit and came back alive. Just now as an experiment, I flash a couple of times, and the car seem to be drained of power. Everything went dead and flicker about. With the flash pro-longed, the engine went dead.

I had to give the battery terminals a knock to be able to restart back the car. After restarting, I did the flash trick again and there's no difference.

Damn what the f- - k is wrong with my car???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...