Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I had a GReddy Turbo timer installed earlier in the year, the TT came with a speedo in which at time of installation was not setup. I finally found the time to go through and check where the "Purple" wire for the TT actually went to and turns out it was taped in a loop to itself just near the hand break. I need to join this with the cars speedo, but unsure as to which wire that is... does anyone know which wire i would need to join this with in an 1996 R33 GTST Series 2?

Regards

Jamie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142003-96-r33-s2-speedo-wire/
Share on other sites

i am also looking to do this.. I am pretty sure we need to do this by runing it off the speedo wire from the std ecu... The purple wire In mine is connected to the hand brake sensor though....for the safety shutoff...I guess it may work if you just bridge that wire from the hand brake to the ecu? as in the manual it says purple is the speedo wire... hmmm.. not to sure which one on the ecu is the speed sensor.

I have same greddy t timer... you can dowload the manual for it from greddy.com.... as mine came with japanese instructions. :)

Turbosmart E-boost 2 manual has the pin-outs and diagrams for heaps of cars including almost all turbo nissan cars specifically for speedo wire. All turbo skylines are included 5meg d/l off turbosmart.com.au

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/index.php?s=f...load&id=108

cheers

Evil

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...