Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just bought a Taisco Boost Gauge, got it cheap off Ebay, I know I am about to get "you get what you pay for" but I am interested to know how accurate they are. when I put it on it says my car is running 9-10 lb boost when the boost cotroller is turned right down, it should read 7lb which is stock boost My origanal boost Gauge was showing 7lb, so are asking this question how acurate are they????. When i was driving in second at 4000rpm constant then put the boot in, it shot up to 11-12 & shat myself waiting for the fins to shoot out the zorst I backed of asap. Do boost controllers raise your boost from standard. please help not game to turn bleed valve up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14232-taisco-boost-gaugehow-accurate/
Share on other sites

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by R31Heaven

Made in Taiwan, :) , just done a bit off reading through the forum & see bleed valves cause the spikes. How long can your turbo handle these spikes or are they bad news and destroy your turbo.

made in tawian hey? Well i was in taiwan for 2 months last year on work, and i would advise u to stay away from it, get an apexi, trust or even an autometer boost gauge.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...