Jump to content
SAU Community

Time for a new clutch!

CanberraR33
 Share

Recommended Posts

CanberraR33 Community Regular

CanberraR33

Posted
Posted

I know it's been asked before, I did a search. But I couldn't find the answer I was looking for.

My clutch is now slipping, and every time I go for a drive all I can smell is burning clutch!

I have a stock R33. I want to get more power out of it over time, but for now it's stock. I want a clutch that allows me to drive normaly (not the whole "on/off" thing) but withstand a few more burnouts and draging then the standard clutch. Mine got stuffed the other night when a line lock went wrong and the clutch smoked instead of the tyres! :P

Justjap are advertising a "performance clutch" for around $500. Does anyone know much about that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14318-time-for-a-new-clutch/
Share on other sites
Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

Do'h... :P

Not good..

I think there are two basic ways you can go for the power upto 200rwkw - 240ish.....

First is to go a full faced organic or ceramic clutch with a heavy presure plate, and second would be a 5 or 6 puck brass button clutch.

The full faced heavy presure plate will bite a little quicker that a factory one, hold more power, and give your left leg the Arnie look :)

The 5 or 6 puck clutch is very light (same as factory) and bites very quick and will hold more power.

Me and James (you know the other James) ahve put two 6 puck clutches in his and a mates car and both are holding great. While mine has a heavy presure plate type (car came with it).

If you don't mind a heavy peddal I'd go with the one I have, but it it would really pi$$ you off, then go with the 6 puck.

I think James got his 6 puck for $500 exchange or something like that.

If you want to compare the two, just let me know and we'll go for a spin out to James place so you can feel his, and feel mine - clutch that is !!!!

J

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I went a Heavy Duty with 30% more clamping pressure ORGANIC Clutch.

At first I was happy with it but soon realised after a really hard launch at High RPM's the Organic compound would fade and cause second gear to slip with a hard change.

Go for a Kevlar based clutch with at least 30% extra clamping force. 30% isn't that much more noticible and still allows you to sit at the lights without you leg shaking.

Don't go Organic. Really depends on how much grip you are getting. If I launch at 4200-4500rpm it will fade the clutch. Organic has a higher fade degree so it can handle it.

When I say launch I don't mean dump the clutch, I mean ride it out at 4200-4500rpm to minimise wheel spin while the turbo is at max power.

This allows IF you run low tyre pressures and a decent set of tyres to get no wheel spin in first and allows you to sit next to a 4wd Launch and even bog you down if you give it to little revs. Depends on road surface also.

Don't waste your time with Organic. If I remember on SDU GTRBen or previously GTS4Ben used to use a Kevlar clutch and could ride the hell out of it yet it still would not slip or burn.

whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
Posted

I run a 9 puck ceramic cushion button single plate with a 1016kg pressure plate (had it tested). Heavy on the leg - yep! I needed to get both master & slave cylinders full reco'ed to handle it! Driveable - easy as pie. Doesn't mind a you giving it a bit of slippage. Hasn't slipped on me yet.

Clutch kit cost - $720

The stock GTS25t pressure plate is supposed to be rated @ 800kg according to a few local websites. I've since been told this is incorrect & it is actually 650kg!? If so 1000-1100kg is a decent upgrade!

Doc Rookie

Doc

Posted
Posted

I have a similar problem to CanberraR33, but only get the burning smell after a hard launch (lasts for a few days) and it is definitely slipping on full power at high revs. Don't want a button clutch as it is a "daily driver". Jay95R33 and -Joel- , where did you get your clutches from? Anyone else suggest where I can get a good R34 GTR clutch?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

whatsisname.. $720.. is that all for a 9puck?!?

I would probably go that over a kevlar standard when this clutch dies.

Do a search on SDU as GTRBen or GTS4Ben = same person... used to use the Kevlar's. I havn't used one only a organic that like a standard set of brake pads fade hence slip.

So Matt.. we will soon see a change of those best ET's in your sig soon.. :P Good Luck.

whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
Posted

Joel,

I got a good price :P But they don't retail for much more anyway. This is basically the same kit - http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/mall/ck06.asp

Ring ACS/Xtreme & get a quote for the 1050kg pressure plate kit.

I'm hoping the ET will come down by @ least 0.1sec :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...