Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah joel could be onto something

the manual mentions a bit about "issues" control over 1.3kgcm2

but its not clear. does the map sensor let you see to 1.6bar ?

not sure we didnt go past 1.35kgcm2 as it the boost wave got real ugly

I've recoreded and controlled over 2bar with the avc-r which uses the same solonoid and map sensor? On a external gate with 17psi spring

Altho with the avc-r the duty cycle is adjustable via rpm. looks like it getting boost spike and its cutting it, try the lower duty cycle

im running a 18 pound actuator and a brand new PFC boost control kit.

attached is a dyno print out showing the wave.

i have installed a 2mm restrictor in the feed line to the solenoid and the results are on the printout.

before i installed the restrictor it was even worse.

the boost settings are on 1.6 kgm cm

and the duty cycle is on 83 %

its a built rb25det with the new gt3540-iw

if i go any higher with the boost the wave gets bigger, and longer.

does any one have any other solution?

cheers Darren

Hey Darren,

Is your solenoid inline between the pressure source and the gate, or is it operating as a bleed?

Have you tried it the 'other way'?

Does the PFC "learn" over time? If not, what does that last number displayed on the HC mean?

Regards,

Saliya

Hey Darren,

Is your solenoid inline between the pressure source and the gate, or is it operating as a bleed?

Have you tried it the 'other way'?

Does the PFC "learn" over time? If not, what does that last number displayed on the HC mean?

Regards,

Saliya

yes its in line.

no idea!

Sorry Gary you have lost me.

i have a bad headache.

what ebc are you talking about?

where do you recomend running the lines from for the ebc?

should i get a fitting put into the outlet of the comp cover?

or what?

also should i plug the map sensor into the bov instead?

cheers

You posted this;

the map sensor i joined with a T fitting into the line to the EBC from the plenum

I assumed;

"map sensor" = the PFC BCK map sensor

"EBC" = some other (no longer used) EBC

If you have lots of vacuum tubing (and T pieces) between the plenum and the PFC BCK map sensor, you will get slow response to boost changes. Lots of air in there buffers the pressure changes, especially when you have a turbo that ramps up onto boost rediculously fast.

So make the vacuum hose from the plenum to the BCK map sensor short and get rid of (or move) anything else on the same vacuum feed.

Looking at the two boost curves (gizmo and BCK) I see the same waves. The gizmo looks better only because the scaling is smaller. Same problem then as you have now. It's an auto, so how are you locking up the torque converter? If you aren't locking up the torque converter, than that is the problem. Simplistically, when the turbo hits boost the torque converter unlocks, this releases the load from the engine and it produces less exhaust. Less exhaust means less boost, less boost means the torque converter locks up again, etc etc.

When dynoing an auto, we always log the engine rpm, that way we can see the torque converter effects.

:D cheers :D

what do you mean learning value?

The learning value is the 255 initial value that you cannot change. If you get the duty cycle close enough the PFC uses (fuzzy logic) to fine tune it. The learning value will change as the computer fine tunes it self. Therefore if this value does not change, you either have the duty perfect OR you are no where near. In your case I reakon you probably have too much duty.

What is your duty set at?

PS, the above is just my opion. Might not be fact but seems to work for me...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The spray cans were in the "Kiln" room whilst I was preping the parts,  so probably around 2 hours to get them warmed up, the kiln room has 3 small ovens running at 100°c, 3 medium sized ovens running 100°c, and the large one I used running at 80°c, the room itself was about 28°c, I also spent a bit of time taping up the parts in the room as well, and by the time I was done I would assume that the parts were around that 28°c As for power, I expect a couple of Killerwasps up high would be achievable with the current mods, I'm still running the MZR 2.0 intake and throttle body, and there is a slight mismatch with the 2.0 intake (smaller) and 2.5 intake ports (larger) on the head, this intake is matched and specifically designed to fix this issue with the ports mismatch, the throttle body is also a couple of mm larger, OEM is 65mm, the Bosch is 68mm In the end it will look "prettier" than the molded plastic thing that is the OEM MZR 2.0 intake As for the LSD, it's the OEM Torsen which works fine for what I use the car for, plus, basically no maintenance apart from the occasional oil change
    • I was at Tunehouse in Marrickville (great team over there really know their VR's) , and I spotted this Very clean R35.  
    • Mate , I have the same issue right now with the exhaust noise , if you can tell me what your local guy did , I'll talk to my guys and see if they can do the same. Power is good but it just too loud when put it down. 
    • The other trick I've found with wrinkle black is to put the can in hot water for a bit to warm the paint up, and to pre-heat whatever you're painting. It'll be interesting to see if you pick up any power with the intake, following with interest. Got a proper lsd for this?
×
×
  • Create New...