Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Mate,

I picked my Skyline up from E&M in January this year. I had looked at quite a few places around Sydney, and found their vehicle's to be a little pricier than some of the other yards, but generally there cars seemed to be in much better condition, and the sales staff seemed a lot more courteous, knowledgable and professional than most of the other places I had checked out. They also offer an extended warranty if you keep your car serviced with them. Hope that helps you out a little.

Damien

  • 2 weeks later...
Has anyone bought a skyline from E&M unique motors1 (21 Parramatta road, Five dock, NSW 2046) ? I Just need to know how good they are...

Thanks mate. thats good. in my case they went a bit koo koo.I got extended warrenty for two years, after i bought the car, I realised that two outer rubber booths on Cv joint and the steering wheel rack has been toned, they have removed my turbo timer and two aftermarket switches. brakes doesnt perforem well either............Im not a happy man, i got them to fix the rubber booths but they havent even talked about the brakes. looks like something wron with the master cylinder...........

just had the car for two weeks and already got problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that mate always a good help
    • It's not really a calibration issue, if the voltage is really at 2V. If the voltage is 2V, then that's what the TPS is putting out, and the Haltech is seeing that and 2V is about 40% open (you know, between 0.45v being closed and something close to 4.5V being fully open). So, that would suggest that the TPS is maladjusted, on crooked, something something something. Or a wire problem.
    • Hi guys my TPS voltage is reading over 2v at idle.  My Haltech ECU is reading around 40% throttle position at idle also which is really strange. Note the actual throttle position sensor is brand new…    anyone have any experience with this or know how to calibrate it on Haltech ? 
    • The OEM disk will not work on any AEM ECU, you need to use the one they made. You shouldn't have to flip the CAS or whatever you were describing, if you set the ignition sync offset correctly it can't backfire. Make sure you're using a spark plug lead on coil 1 instead of the timing loop to avoid weird issues with the timing light. Double check that your timing settings are actually correct, like is the 24 tooth configured correct or should it actually be 12 teeth for 1 crank revolution? I also found this: 305817248-AEM-Undocumented-Settings-v1-2.pdf    
×
×
  • Create New...