Ecu For R33 Gtst Automatic

[SnipeR-33]

Which is the best and recommended ECU for an R33 GTSt automatic? Can go piggy back or stand alone just need to know which one? I have been told that Apex-i Pfc cannot be used on an automatic without tinkering with the unit. Has anyone who owns an automatic come across this issue? Also do i need to have my engine/ stock ECU tuned after having fitted an FMIC, Airfilter and EBC (boosted to 10.5psi) + iridium plugs set to .8mm? (Tuning as in DYNO?)

[dangerman4]

Which is the best and recommended ECU for an R33 GTSt automatic? Can go piggy back or stand alone just need to know which one? I have been told that Apex-i Pfc cannot be used on an automatic without tinkering with the unit. Has anyone who owns an automatic come across this issue? Also do i need to have my engine/ stock ECU tuned after having fitted an FMIC, Airfilter and EBC (boosted to 10.5psi) + iridium plugs set to .8mm? (Tuning as in DYNO?)

If your looking at spending more money down the track on more mods to make the car go faster, then go straight for a PFC.

All the hype about it not working well with the standard auto is well exagerated. I have owned a s1 r33 sedan now for a couple of years, it spent 12 months in the 220 - 270 kw range and now its up into the 320rwkw area and i still cant fault the auto.

My box has a mv shift kit and a large trans cooler but thats it.

as a precautionary messure my car is going in on the 7th dec for the full race trans build by MV autos, which will be somewhere around the $2500 - $3000 mark including hi stall, etc.

when you compare how much guys making this sort of power spend on a decent clutch etc i think the 33 auto's are sold well short of what there capable of.

anyone that coments on here against what i have just said, has never been in a r33 auto with a shift kit.

Cubes can vouch for the shift quality, so argue with him.

Sorry Joel but i need someone to back up my claims.

Or ask 4doorsleeper.

Cheers

[paulr33]

was it detonating on gear change ?

[dangerman4]

was it detonating on gear change ?

No

why do you ask?

[paulr33]

im surprised

cos when you nail it

the engine is on full load and throttle

as you gearchange the throttle doesnt close

so afm voltage is constant, which would mean it wont move around on the load map, well it would a bit, bit not to row 0 where you could back out timing

im just surprised it doesnt, can u get me a map tracer of a run from say a low speed to a high speed, say 20km/h to 80km/h ?

[dangerman4]

im surprised

cos when you nail it

the engine is on full load and throttle

as you gearchange the throttle doesnt close

so afm voltage is constant, which would mean it wont move around on the load map, well it would a bit, bit not to row 0 where you could back out timing

im just surprised it doesnt, can u get me a map tracer of a run from say a low speed to a high speed, say 20km/h to 80km/h ?

i will see if i can get a trace file from my dyno operator.

but i think i have proved the strength of the box, and that it works dont you?

[paulr33]

a few have said many times it will work as far a drive

and run the car, im just surprised it isnt detonating on gear change

or that you arent seeing other strange issues

how is the timing on the tune?

how does the dyno chart look like? how is your average power?

[dangerman4]

a few have said many times it will work as far a drive

and run the car, im just surprised it isnt detonating on gear change

or that you arent seeing other strange issues

how is the timing on the tune?

how does the dyno chart look like? how is your average power?

i entered my dyno sheet into the xl spreadsheet thing thats just started last week so have a look on there and compare it to your xr6 etc.

[Sydneykid]

The facts are that the standard ECU retards/cuts the igntion on gearchanges. This makes the changes smooth and stops full load on the gearbox (bands and clutches) during the geashift. Aftermarket ECu's don't have the complex mapping for this retard/cut. So you get rough gearchanges and premature gearbox wear.

These are the questions that I have asked the other 6 guys who swore that they had no problems with their auto and an aftermarket ECU.

1. How smooth is the gearshift on a full throttle up change?

2. How smooth is the gearshift on a low throttle upchange?

3. How would you compare the gearshift smoothness to when you had a standard ECU?

5. How many K's does it travel?

6. City traffic?

7. Circuit work?

8. Drags?

The answers might help you decide whether an aftermarket ECU will do the job to your satisfaction (one man's meat is another man's poison).

cheers

[paulr33]

thanks ill have a look, the xr6 isnt mine, a friends.

just had a look, wierd that the power goes down at the start, is that a gearchange?

can u show us the actual dyno sheet ?

[dangerman4]

The facts are that the standard ECU retards/cuts the igntion on gearchanges. This makes the changes smooth and stops full load on the gearbox (bands and clutches) during the geashift. Aftermarket ECu's don't have the complex mapping for this retard/cut. So you get rough gearchanges and premature gearbox wear.

These are the questions that I have asked the other 6 guys who swore that they had no problems with their auto and an aftermarket ECU.

1. How smooth is the gearshift on a full throttle up change?

2. How smooth is the gearshift on a low throttle upchange?

3. How would you compare the gearshift smoothness to when you had a standard ECU?

5. How many K's does it travel?

6. City traffic?

7. Circuit work?

8. Drags?

The answers might help you decide whether an aftermarket ECU will do the job to your satisfaction (one man's meat is another man's poison).

cheers

Hi Gary

i hoped you would enter into this discussion.

the car is a daily driver and is normally driven by my wife.

as the car has a stage 2 shift kit, the shifts are quick and precise whether it had the stock ecu or the PFC.

as far as shift points are concerned it does everytyhing when it should acording to your right foot.

its very predictable and is the same quality of drive today as it was when i installed it.

The shift quality compared to the standard ecu cant be measured as the stage 2 shift kit does all the work and shift quality is the same regardless of ecu.

i agree without the shift kit a aftermarket ecu would place more stress on the bands etc, but with a shift kit the ecu issue is removed.

[dangerman4]

thanks ill have a look, the xr6 isnt mine, a friends.

just had a look, wierd that the power goes down at the start, is that a gearchange?

can u show us the actual dyno sheet ?

No gearchange i have unplugged the trans loom in the engine bay so the car is stuck in 3rd

as the car takes off in third it may just be how John used the throttle to get the rollers up to speed.

As you can see boost ramps up ridiculisly fast and the trans is still going strong.

[paulr33]

what happens if you leave the loom connected?

why was it removed ?

[dangerman4]

what happens if you leave the loom connected?

why was it removed ?

if you leave the loom conected it can try to kick back to 2nd when you give it WOT in Drive!

or you have to do the run with it stuck in second.

but much past 250kws it will ramp up to fast in second and smoke the tyres.

by unpluging the loom you solve these two probs and can tune all the map not just WOT.

[paulr33]

ah yeah makes sense now that youve explained it

have u watched the map tracer much plodding around and going through gear changes ?

[dangerman4]

ah yeah makes sense now that youve explained it

have u watched the map tracer much plodding around and going through gear changes ?

not really!

[N I B]

All the rules change with race modded Autos so go with the ECU your tuner likes.

[SnipeR-33]

I visited a shop and inquired about an Apex-i PFC, according to them there isnt a unit that suits my car. So we then had a look for another brand a GREDDY stand alone but apparently this unit was also incompatible for my car, it being automatic. So now they are suggesting that the only unit i can fit in my car is a GREDDY E Manage. ( Piggy Back!) My Reply was "ahh uhmm No Thankz! Maybe Later." I want a Stand alone unit as i will be chasing more HP down the drack. Still my dillema is finding the most suitable unit for my GTSt Automatic S1. According to many Apex-i is the best selling unit in the market and that is why im keen on em. Just need to know if it is possible to chuck one in an Automatic. Im from Adelaide do any of you guys know any good mechanic from down here? A fellow from a Nissan dealer suggested WILLALL RACING, i've read some tech stuff from magazine and they have been mentioned a few times.

[shoebox]

Being an auto r33 gts-t owner myself, i have asked myself the very same qn you're asking yourself now a few weeks ago. After quite an extensive amount of reading up and asking around, i have found out that:

If your car is an auto, it's best that you keep your stock ECU unless you want to trash your transmission, or do a manual conversion. No exceptions.

Piggy back systems are the only way out for us, and seeing that the PFC is already discontinued, i would seriously recommend that you get Apexi's new product, the P-NBC, rather than go for something obsolete.

Details: http://www.apexera.co.jp/carlife/pro_apexi...ics/P-NBC1.html

In case you can't read japanese, it supposedly takes the advantages of the AFC and PFC and places it into one product.

By the way, if you're going to go for an AFC, the SAFC2 by apex'i is also a discontinued product. Go for the AFC Neo instead.

I fitted my car with an AFC Neo and an RSM a few days before i found out that the P-NBC is released... *sigh*

[dangerman4]

Being an auto r33 gts-t owner myself, i have asked myself the very same qn you're asking yourself now a few weeks ago. After quite an extensive amount of reading up and asking around, i have found out that:

If your car is an auto, it's best that you keep your stock ECU unless you want to trash your transmission, or do a manual conversion. No exceptions.

Piggy back systems are the only way out for us, and seeing that the PFC is already discontinued, i would seriously recommend that you get Apexi's new product, the P-NBC, rather than go for something obsolete.

Details: http://www.apexera.co.jp/carlife/pro_apexi...ics/P-NBC1.html

In case you can't read japanese, it supposedly takes the advantages of the AFC and PFC and places it into one product.

By the way, if you're going to go for an AFC, the SAFC2 by apex'i is also a discontinued product. Go for the AFC Neo instead.

I fitted my car with an AFC Neo and an RSM a few days before i found out that the P-NBC is released... *sigh*

Are you serious?

havent you read what i have typed above..

you must be drunk....