Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone know the way to run a lead thru the wall of s1, any advice appreciated, searched but could only find info on r33

Yeah its a dog on the Stagea!

I just fitted an electronic boost guage yesterday, and realised how much more difficult it was compared to my old Skyline.

So what I did was to use the same route as the bonnet release cable. Its located inside the drivers foot well, up and to the right of the accellerator pedal.

Its a tricky one to use, but keeps all wires neatly out of the way if your running a guage or anything else.

Now the hardest part was "threading the needle" I straightened out an old wire coathanger and jabbed it through the rubber boot and fed it through into the bonnet. This isnt as easy as it sounds, because you have to feed that wire through the bonnet via a small hole beside the brake master cylinder. (you can see this in the far top right hand corner of your engine bay, next to some fuses or something). The trick to getting it through there is pre-bending your coat hanger, and having a second person guiding you from above the hole. Once it was through, I just tapped my sensor wires to the coat hanger end, and pulled it all back through in one angry yanking motion!

Once its through you are done! nice and neat.

Ill take some piccies tonight that should make this explanation a bit clearer.

Cheers,

Ben.

Edited by bbenny
Yeah its a dog on the Stagea!

I just fitted an electronic boost guage yesterday, and realised how much more difficult it was compared to my old Skyline.

So what I did was to use the same route as the bonnet release cable. Its located inside the drivers foot well, up and to the right of the accellerator pedal.

Its a tricky one to use, but keeps all wires neatly out of the way if your running a guage or anything else.

Now the hardest part was "threading the needle" I straightened out an old wire coathanger and jabbed it through the rubber boot and fed it through into the bonnet. This isnt as easy as it sounds, because you have to feed that wire through the bonnet via a small hole beside the brake master cylinder. (you can see this in the far top right hand corner of your engine bay, next to some fuses or something). The trick to getting it through there is pre-bending your coat hanger, and having a second person guiding you from above the hole. Once it was through, I just tapped my sensor wires to the coat hanger end, and pulled it all back through in one angry yanking motion!

Once its through you are done! nice and neat.

Ill take some piccies tonight that should make this explanation a bit clearer.

Cheers,

Ben.

Exactly what he said.

thanks for the replies guys great info, has solved my problem, while i was digging around behind centre consol i found a little black box with a toogle switch, post up a photo tnite. ps thanks for pm grigor appreciate your help,cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks GTSboy. I will inspect the valves actually, is this something I can do while they are still in the head? The block/bores don’t look bad to be honest hey, I can still see the cross hatches in the bores and they still measure 86.5mm. I’m not sure how to measure the installed ring gaps but I will do that and take it to someone who can. 
    • I’ve had the same headache with my lowered car, scissor jack first then floor jack every time. Ended up grabbing an extra-low profile aluminum jack (about 70mm entry height) and it finally slides under the lip without drama.
    • No sync errors , i have installed AEM disk will return original 360 slot disk and check if there’s any one with running AEM disk could share setup 
    • Its been a while! Finally thought to do something on this car, so here we go. This will be a slow burning, multiple posts as I spend 0.5-1hr a day on this job, over multiple days... Full set of GKTech suspension arms!   Step 1: Buy Arms, done! Step 2: Start removing stuff. HICAS was easy. Rear suspension arms are now gone, they were a bitch but breaker bars with long handle extensions, 2 1.5hr slots later, stock arms are off! Next step, remove the hubs and take them to work to press out the bearings and bushings!  
×
×
  • Create New...