Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

you can buy a belt dressing, mine screetches a little every now and them, just spray a bit of this on, stops it for awhile, then re apply or adjust it.

it would probably be better than soap, coke or wd40 etc. because its designed for that exact purpose, conditions the belts too.

you can pick i up at supercheap, or maybe autobahn or places alike will stock it.

The fix for you...did this last week on my Maxima.

Wet some soap untill it becomes like Jelly then apply to the belt.

PRESTO......no noise.

Cheers

;)

yes I can vouch for that one..Its an old mechanics trick that works...poor bastards are usually slugged $ for it.

My alternator belt used to screach when it was really hot, then if you revved it up a bit or turn it off and on again it would go away. Then I tightend the belts, and they have never squealed again. The belts are in good condition, so I knew that wasn't the problem. After it would squeal, the alternator wheel was hotter than the exhaust manifold, so thats how I knew which belt was slipping.

for mine it was allways the alternator belt that was doing all of the screeching. and boy did it screech..

i ended up haveing the neighbours ask me if it was my car they were hearing in the morning.

tighten it a bit untill it stops then back it off. if it still does it after youve backed it off tighten it up a little more untill it stops again. what u dont want to do is tighten the f**k outa it and root the belt.

i hear that screaching noise every few months , i mainly notice it when we get some rain or a misty night , my opinion is it could be moisture getting to the belts? my opinion - im not a mechanic or anything , but i do notice it in those conditions . on my old car i got the same noise and sprayed some wd40 on them , would stop the noise , from happening in winter

I got that problem with my '01 laser. Every time it rains, my belts would squeal but would dissapear after the engine bay heated up.

is the screeching like a grinding screech? i.e. starter solenoid not disengaging gear properly?

if its screeching when your taking off your increasing the load on the belts hence slipping so i reckon its them

Edited by Jmaac
  • 2 months later...

I need some help too.. Here's my story:

My car was running good, no screeching from under the hood for a couple months..

One morning I start it up..Screeech!!! It lasted for about 30 secs and when the belts warmed up, the noise stopped. It did that after every cold start.

I finally put the car on the lift and put some more tension on the belts.. The noise stopped and all was good for a couple weeks.

Well, my belts started screeching again and so I took it to the mechanic and they put new belts on (from Nissan) and a couple days later took it in again to have them tighten the belts again. It started screeching again, and I had them replace a leaky power steering hose.. (hehe, they told me that was the problem). Now the dang belts are still noisy on cold starts, and I don't know which one.

Could the problem be with the tensioners? Could there be a stripped bolt that keeps coming loose??

I don't know and was wondering if there's a way to replace the tensioners / bolts and if anyone knows where I could pick them up.. I was guessing a Nissan parts store.

I live in Japan and the local Nissan dealer said they might not be able to look at my car because of the mods I have done to the car (i.e. the mirrors don't retract in, haha).. And I don't trust the local mechanic, so I'll do it myself. Thanks for the information, and help, in advance

By the way, I have a '93 GTS25T, with stock engine. I'll post everything in my profile later:) Thanks

Probably completely different problem here, but with the 1JZ Toyota motor (not sure is Nissan's RB is the same) the crank pulley and Harmonic balancer is a 2-piece item, the section that is connected to the motor is metal, the pulley it's self is metal, and there is a rubber shock-absorbing connector that holds the 2 together.

On my other car, the rubber between the 2 metal sections pitted and broke loose, so each time I started the car, it would screach just a little.

Problem with this one (and again, dont know if the RB has the same issue) is that this pulley drives alternator, waterpump and other peripherals, so if the pulley stopped spinning (of came off) it would stop pumping coolant around the engine.

Mine has come off twice now, thus the reason for buying a new car, so not sure if the Nissan could/would have the same issue, but something worth looking at.

My personal preference is that once a belt starts to make noise, it's usually crying to be replaced, or the tensioner is requiring attention.

B.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...